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I would like to hear the logic behind this one too ::popcorn::

Sounds like you've already convinced yourself what the problem is...never mind a little diagnostic work. Good luck...

For starters, Lucas oil treatment is crap.... Is it white smoke?

Did you replace the rubber injector grommets when you replaced the HG? Do you have any ECU codes?

That looks like the steering damper bolt/nut that's rubbing. Make sure your IC brackets are bolted to the IC and are fitted properly. You IC should not be that far aft.

It's a good location - just make sure you use a quality probe. If it breaks off, it goes straight into the turbine - that is not good.

1st rule: The crankcase is pressurized due to blowby. 2nd rule: Air pressure (or vacuum) will follow the path of least resistance...keep this in mind. On the stock system, it's the TB (intake manifold) that provides vac...this covers over 90% of operating conditions. Under boost, flow...

Not too sure myself :dunno: Of the Fram filters, the XG (Extra Guard) is probably the best of the line - actually a middle of the road filter, but still constructed cheap. The PureOne far out classes it - along with Wix, K&N, Mobile One, etc...

It kinda is on par with those. Keep in mind a thermostat is designed to regulate flow to the radiator to keep coolant temp at it's temp spec - that temp is what the engine was designed to operate at most efficiently. With a radiator that has factory thermal capacity - the extra flow does...

http://www.stant.com/Consumer-Products/Thermostats/SuperStat--Thermostat/ On par or better than Toyota factory. The jiggle valve is a small metal shaft with a round end inside a hole on the thermostat face. Cutting it off allows a small flow through the stat at all times - very effective in...

* Buy stock temp superstat * Cut off jiggle valve * Install with new gasket * Be Happy! ;)

That will give you a good approximation - your oil temps are likely a bit higher though ;)

No, he didn't...:3d_frown: He should - might actually learn something about how the 7M-GTE PCV system actually works.

Yep, the Ford oil/friction modifier does work very well in the Supra LSD. RP oil tends to be "too slick", especially in a high mileage LSD. Redline 75/90 is good, but I only recommend it for new or rebuilt LSDs - it can cause chatter on a LSD with a lot of miles.

Looks like the Platinum is a nice filter - a bit pricey though! They are also made by Wix (like the NAPA Gold) - appears to be designed as a direct competitor to the Amsoil EaO filter. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2323101&page=1

The stock cooler is actually not too bad, just a bit small IMO - the problem with it is it's pressure based, essentially creating another pressure bleed on the system. Where is the oil temp sensor located? With those lines and the Platinum filter, I am confident of what is causing the slight...

Then why not quote everything I said? Instead you removed 3 short sentences that changed the context - typical of your passive/aggressive shots at me. What you were telling him to do was leading off on a tangent path that had nothing to do with Grim's real problem - and, you wouldn't stop. I...

Anything CyFi6 says about me should be immediately suspect - it's not the 1st time he's done this crap. Yeah, lav breaks seem to be a hazard now! LOL! I'm still around, just had a bunch of personal stuff requiring my attention lately - thankfully, those are starting to abate ;)

In that case, your oil pump relief valve is not dumping oil to the pan ;) You have the complete set-up, cooler and remote filter per the full flow sticky in this section?

JJ - you posted in the thread he's referring to... Completely different issue in that thread...lets put it in context: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?85039-poor-idle-after-warm-restart In addition, this is the "complete" post I made: If you're going to take a shot at me, be...