Ofcourse, as you wear everything in, it will run smoother.
My R154, supposedly a notchy gearbox, shifts perfectly fine before I rebuilt it and after rebuilding, it was smooth. Now that I have close to a 1000 miles on it, it's even better. I shifted gears with a two fingers when I first...
Ok,
Check Codes For The "Choking" Issues.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23
Report Back After That....
Where was the leak? It could be a input shaft seal, engine rear main seal, output shaft seal, tower rubber gasket, speedometer assembly O-ring, fill...
What about 3P on here. He is doing a lot of work on the 7M ECU. If he could take a look at this, figure it out, if it is not that hard to do like flashing a 7M ECU, he could make some money.
This is why you get good tires. Drag radials will prevent this, I drive around on Nitto Drag radials.
I would do that swap just to have a stop light to stop light car.
Take out the check valve, you should only be able to blow air through it in one direction.
Two, a bad booster would make the pedal difficult to press.
Maybe you bled it wrong.
Dr.Tweak is a good person for the wiring. He does good work and will troubleshoot with you if there is a mistake.
Yes, his work is not cheap but if you ever took the time to go through a harness, it is tedious work and considering that, his price is really good.
You could get a V1. Give them a call and see if they have any advice. If they don't want to do a V2, then a V1 will be your option or ProEFI. You can run it off a 48 ECU and make your own harness. It is cheaper.
ProEFI 48
Plug and Pin Kit
Buy the wires and make your own harness.
You can even...
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