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You used the thread I wrote and forgot the water pump and timing belt! :nono Thats not bad, it's only a thousand bucks, I am approaching to be 10K over, at 8K over right now, how you ask? Simple. Planned for an OEM 1JZ rebuild as I bought it blown and I went all out from internals to...

Glad you got it done.

Get the coil upgrade. It's worth every penny. VVT-i has skinnier rods but that's only for the GE, the GTE has the same bottom end.

^^^

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

Easy. FRONT Loosen the three nuts on the shock tower. Loosen the few ten bolts holding the brake line to the strut. Loosen the LONG upper control arm bolt, move control arm out of the way. Loosen the bolt holding the strut to the control arm. Remove old strut and install coilovers in...

to hvyman: Where are you saying to cut the hole? What should I worry about destroying behind? Also, could you or anyone be more specific on what all needs to be rewired? I'm actually having trouble figuring out what a few things actually are. Go to my build thread, I have pictures in there of...

Amazon has a lot of replicas. "Apexi N1" in the search box and "Apexi N1 Style Muffler" comes up. :ugh:

Jet, if I remember correctly, was it you that said the oil pressure signal is used to adjust engine RPM +/- 50 RPM? This is in response to you saying its design for the stock TCCS.

:ugh:

How are you going to feed it vacuum? I contacted Larry at SP and he said, the solenoid can be just ran of a LS output and the wastegate solenoid off the usual PW pin.

QSV owns.

Check the fuses for the blower. Get a probe out and check for power along the plugs. Use the TSRM and follow the electrical diagram. Did you check the fuses? Have you tested the blower by just connecting it to a battery?

Okay, cool. So at idle, it not a bad problem just never do it under boost, correct?

Ian, Running 17.0 AFR at cruise or at idle is not a problem, just when its under boost, correct? I see numerous MKIV guys leaning out their tunes for highway cruising. My stock ECU like to go to 15 and sometimes 16 just at idle.

All sensors plugged in? When you say heat isn't blowing, do you mean the air is cold or the blower is not working. If the heat is cold, check that the heater valve moves when you turn on the heat.

There is a spot on the block for it. It is an unused hole where if I recall correctly, is held in by a 12MM head bolt. It is there from the factory. Its located on the intake side by the engine mount area.

Are you going to run a ground back to the engine block?

Check starter hotwire to positive terminal on battery. Chassis to battery ground wire. Battery ground to engine block wire. Check all of those, if all are good and clean, I say a battery/alternator is next on the list.

Nice. What manifold is that?