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I was hoping no one would tell on me..... I have the wiring diagram and it didn't dive me a clue as that circuit just seems to go I to the theft computer Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

My Theft Deterrent Light on the dash is of when the ignition is off and when I turn on the ignition, it is constantly lit....anyone have a clue? I have looked at the wiring diagram and it only goes to the computer.....

is there any work around to make the light stay off? Will the light being on have any other effects?

I have a non ABS W58, it came from a non-ABS car. I have put it into my 88 NA MKIII that has ABS and I am getting the ABS light because there is no ABS sensor on the transmission. My question, before I pull the tranny to look, do all trannys have the skid control rotor installed and do I just...

I have a non ABS W58, it came from a non-ABS car. I have put it into my 88 NA MKIII that has ABS and I am getting the ABS light because there is no ABS sensor on the transmission. My question, before I pull the tranny to look, do all trannys have the skid control rotor installed and do I just...

OK....Im going to close this thread....found the issue.... In the beginning when I swapped the harnesses, I needed to replace the clip on the distributor. I followed the TEWD on the order of the pins in the new harness...I looked at the pictures and followed the colors....I did not read that...

I have not put a gauge on the rail to see pressure, but you can hear it rushing through, it presureizes the line pretty well cause fuel sprays out when the rail is opened. It fires almost every time when the key is turned on and the rpm's move up to about 2000 then drop down immediately. If i...

Engine was running in previous car...no issues present. I did not remove the dizzy, just placed it in my car. I put engine at TDC and confirmed that cyl 1 was at its highest point, took off the cap and confirmed it pointing to number 1. Checked the crank pully markings so that they were at zero.

yes...fuel is present in the rail, the pump creates pressure in the rail and it runs when I jump the Fp and B+ terminals....

engine had an 89 harness on it when I got the engine and I got the ECU as well. Both were marked and I looked up the numbers and they came back CA...the harness and the engine had the extra connector for the EGR temp sensor. The Dizzy connector was different on my 88 harness so I swapped the...

Timing is dead on and no codes....I don't think its a fuel issue...it fires right up each time i try to start, but it won't stay started, it dies right away. Cold start injector is supplying enough for it to fire. I have checked for fuel in the rail and for the fuel pump running.

Ok...I've exhausted all my ability to search and test. I think i've tested everything or replaced it...I've searched several different ways and found others that have similar problems, but did not see any solutions...their threads just seem to die....here goes... It's a 1988 GE, all stock...

Tell me another conclusion based on the information I have given....

as far as I know, when you release the throttle, the dashpot allows the throttle to slowly idle the car down without shutting it down instantly. It is a little baffle that slowly allows the throttle to even out. Mine would allow the throttle to completely bottom out instantly when I let off...

The dying was caused because the dashpot was out of adjustment.....which caused fuel to remain and flood the engine. The code 21 was unspent fuel to set off the O2 sensor....Ran it just now and ran fine, and no codes....only a short drive, but worked....longer drive tomorrow.....

so replace the CPS? You think the wiring is bad in it and it makes contact some times and not others?

I have a fresh build on a 7mgte...ran great for 75 miles...then while driving in town, I pressed on the clutch and it died...I immediately let off the clutch and it started up again....but when I pressed on the clutch again, it died and I could not start it...I coasted to a parking lot and tried...

Well, took it out for a short drive. In D, it fluctuates between gears when held at a steady speed. It does shift down as its supposed to when you accelerate. when I shift to 2, it seems to shift to 1. When I manually put it in 1 and drive, it does seem to operate like it should, but im not...

im a bit slow...i really dont understand what you are saying or wnat to look at in the chart....sorry

Driving is not the issue....going in reverse was the issue.....as I said, it drives in forward gears but not in reverse. If I pull the kick down cable all the way up and tie it off, it will go in reverse and still go forward.