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there's a drip coming from in between the block and bellhousing. so first thing i thought was its the rear main. but it smells like tranny fluid, which has a pretty distinct smell. another thing is when i check my oil its clean as can be on the dipstick since there's only 100 miles on my motor...

i don't remember it being too bad but there was some thread left like you said.

i've always read that a 10mm spacer is a good one to go with. it makes it much more flush. i plan on getting 10-15mm in the front and 8mm for the rear.

yeah it was tough to get apart for me too. def worth it though.

when i installed mine it connected directly to the fuel line like you said. eliminating the bango bolt. where did you get your fpd eliminator from? i got mine from Driftmotion.

the cps is on the exhaust side right behind the power steering resevior. the tps is on the throttle body. i would check to make sure that is adjusted right. and as for the "crank sensor" code you found there is no crank sensor. i'd check the codes again. what number code is it?

have you checked for codes? i had a similar problem with my rebuild. it turned out i had a bad TPS and it wasn't letting me rev past 2000rpm. or it could possibly be the afm. but i say definitely check for codes first.

got the nut torqued to 36 ft lbs. i'll be checking it for sure like you said.

well i checked my cam gears when the crank was at TDC and you were right jdub my belt jumped a tooth. the cam gears weren't lined up like they were supposed to. but i guess it wasn't too far off since the car would run and all. got them lined back up, set my timing and she runs flawless now...

i can't find the page on the online tsrm as the one i used in my copy. maybe some one else can chime in. if not i'll copy them down for you.

i tested resistance on the afm connector and everything checked out. my accordion hose has a crack where it attaches to the turbo inlet but it closes up when i tighten the clamp down. could this crack be causing me to get code 31?

ok awesome, i'll def be doing all this this weekend. thanks for all the help jdub, i'll post how everything goes.

car looks real clean! bummer about the rod knock though. i've been there, sucks man. can't wait to see some build updates!

i'll keep this in mind and take a look at it. thats probably what's keeping him from getting it right at 10 degrees. thats what it should be at right?

my dad just checked the timing and it was way off, forgot what he said it was at. he said he still couldn't get it quite to 10 degrees though. he took it out for a drive and it was sooo much better. so a little bit more adjusting i suppose.

or the timing sprocket on the crank could be on backwards. i've done it on my fresh rebuild and it started eating away at the timing belt. but if that was the case your front main would have blown out too.

i'm pretty sure we got the belt on there right. i will def check this weekend though and the tensioner. i've only driven the car 70 miles maybe since the rebuild :biglaugh:. its crazy the difference between the first drive and now. its driving slower right now than my NA did...

i was going to check all that this weekend. the tensioner was brand new when i rebuilt the motor, i wouldn't have to replace that after doing the front main would i?

i've got my car running finally with a fully rebuilt 7mgte swap, was a NA. the first test drive the car pulled amazing just like it should and was making 10psi with no controller. well since that first drive i've done a few things to it and now its bogging really bad when i first take off from a...

nevermind, just got it figured out