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Sweet...any opinions on moly vs chrome/steel rings? I believe the ITM ones are moly and the engine tech are chrome.

Are the ITM engine component rings decent rings?

Im actually in Savannah right now...finishing school here then hopefully headed back to the atlanta area.

Or if anybody else knows of another brand of 20 over rings that are quality that are more available than NPR rings.

Yea I purchased the same size for the rods and mains. I am having a really hard time finding .020 over piston rings. Any suggestions? I ordered some on ebay and they returned my money saying they were out of stock and did not know when the next shipment would arrive from NPR. I am not in the...

Just need some rings and a gasket set and the build starts

Well, I had no idea. That sucks lol. So I am probably going to get some type of reboxed crap.

Oh wow that's pretty sweet. I went ahead and ordered some clevite main bearings and ACL rod bearings. I just figured that I would rather be safe than sorry. Especially when it comes to a 7m.

So I just received my 6m remanufactured crank in the mail. The crank was supposed to have been sent with ACL or clevite bearings. While they did send ACL thrust washers, the rod bearings are "ITM engine components" and the main bearings are .50mm over federal mogul bearings. Just making sure...

Should I replace the rings while everything is taken apart? They probably only have 10-15k miles on them.

Ok sweet. I will try both of those sizes. I tried looking around for spare bolts, but I couldn't find one that would fit. I'll just go get an assortment at the hardware store. Would much rather use a puller to remove it vs prying it off.

One of the only things I have left to remove the crank is to get the timing belt sprocket off of the crank. It looks like the sprocket has two threaded holes so that I could use my harmonic balancer puller instead of prying it off. None of the bolts that my puller kit came with are the right...

Sucks...almost have it all that way taken apart. Can't wait to get it back on the road. Just have to get the crank to a machine shop to see if they can clean it up.

Well I just found out my gte spun the number 3 bearing. Here comes a rebuild...........awesome. Hoping that the crank isn't so bad that a machine shop can't fix it. Any ideas why this happened?

I am currently in the process of removing my 7mgte. I have everything disconnected and borrowed a 1 ton harbor freight (pittsburg brand?) lift from my dad which he used to swap a rebuilt engine into a rav 4. Worked great for him, not so much for me. The boom doesn't seem to be long enough. When...

I'm really starting to consider selling the car...just don't really have the time to fix with it and I've been falling out of love with it lately. Don't know what to do haha

Yea this is the same build from 2011. I gave the arp rod bolts and rods to the machine shop and im pretty sure they resized them for me. I will have to ask my buddy who helped me build the engine...it's so long I can't remember. The pump was new and it was shimmed (can't remember how much). Who...

I will definitely check the flywheel...it's a little suspect to me that the knock started EXACTLY 1000 miles after I installed a new clutch. I plan on pulling the tranny first to check this before I take the motor out. So maybe I will find that the flywheel is loose or something. I would hope...

I probably should "plastigauge" the crank/rods to check the clearance. Any info on how to do this? Never done it before.

Oil is full and clean which kind of has me wondering why it happened. It's a fresh rebuild...only 10k miles or so. I plan on keeping the 7m for now. I will probably just yank the motor out, turn it upside down and replace the bearings. Any ideas what could have caused the knock on such a new...