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That is a true statement. O'Reilly's carries Wix in Phoenix - I'm sure you can order them in your area. Rock Auto online is another option.

I second the motion ;)

Don't know a lot about the Cusco oil, but Redline of the same weight should work fine. Take a look at the Cusco website for the weight.

Give GC a try - I'm thinking your motor doesn't like RP. ;)

Fixed - You will not regret it ;)

I call that "Lucky" ;)

It can, but not nearly as bad as Methanol - Toluene is a better choice as I said earlier, very little risk for rubber. Xylene is used by some commercial fuel blenders to achieve high octane - mixed with gasoline, there is little danger of it attacking rubber.

I would do the same thing SC did ;)

Both are very true statements ;)

Excellent oil actually - use the 0W-30 or 5W-40 synthetic versions though ;)

Here's the calculation: (gasoline octane x # of gallons) + (octane booster value x # of gallons X ) / total gallons of gasoline + booster = octane rating per gallon Xylene = 117 Toluene = 114 Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE) = 118 (BTU content than toulene or xylene, but has oxygenate...

Chevron Techron contains polyetheramine - in fact, Chevron invented it and Techron is their brand name for it. I like GumOut Regane because it contains a higher concentration - Redline SL-1 also does as well. Xylene is a superb octane booster that is readily available in any paint store. The...

This Chevron Tech Review might help: http://www.chevronwithtechron.com/products/documents/69083_MotorGas_Tech_Review.pdf From that article: Aviation gasoline is rated using MON - it is a better predictor of engine performance under load and before 100LL often you would see it expressed a 2...

That would be a good idea IMO - you could go 3500-4000 though.

Reg - the wear metals are high. RP is a good oil, but it is formulated more so for the track...some guys have good luck with it, some do not and show the same kind of analysis. It could be exactly as Blackstone says - wear in of the new parts. The next analysis will be more informative. If...

Brandon - I saw the potassium/sodium too, but didn't really get to that conclusion - I think it's premature, esp since telling me you are not losing coolant. Perhaps a lil shorter change interval is warranted this next time though just to be on the safe side. That's a excellent filter ;)

Brandon - Iron, copper, and (esp) lead are all high - all are wear metals, so not the best result. Iron and copper are really close to the univ average, so nothing to panic about since it is the 1st switch to synthetic and could be some residual wear metals from the break-in. Silicon is also...

E10 should not be a problem at all. That oil is way too thick....no wonder your hot idle oil psi is so high.

Gasohol can make hot start problems worse. What E? Your oil pressure is good at the idle side, a lil low (but not bad) for the hot pressure. What oil make/grade? Just disconnect the vac line to the FPR on the next hot start and see if it makes a difference.

I'm thinking....::popcorn::