Search results

Thanks buddy, appreciate it. However, I was watching a video from Poor Man Mods on YouTube where they were changing valve seals on a 1jz engine. In that video they displayed two tools; one for removing/installing keepers and one for removing/installing the valve seals...

Lol, I was about to suggest/ask about air cans but thought I might get blasted for that but it IS an option. Thanks man, appreciate it; I'll look into these bottom taps.

Alright....I'll get off the straight edge thought right now. Thanks Moving on to other topics related though....I don't have access to air tools so what could I use to "blow/clean" out the bolt holes in place of it if possible??

Alright....but leave me with this....it IS HARD to warp these iron blocks, right (even though I drove home w/ minimal to no coolant for 2-3miles - blew a hose)??

Sigh....yea man, I don't know. If its badly warped, the only sensible thing to do would be to pull the block....sigh....pretty much engine rebuild, right?? Can't deck a block w/ internals, can you?? At the same time, I don't wanna take a straight edge to it cause I fear this exact scenario will...

Hmm, I don't know man. I say this with shame....but I drove home 2-3 miles with no coolant last October; it overheated pretty nastily. Even if I get an aluminum cheap straight edge ruler from Harbor Freight or something, I think that will be better than nothing....otherwise....yea, I don't wanna...

So far I started pulling apart my engine Friday (worked through the night till 2pm the next day) preparing it for the HG job. I'll get back on it Thursday or Friday night and drop my 7M head off at the machine shop on Saturday. Here's a few pictures of what going on. However, I just...

Got my Arp Studs and Toyota OEM headgasket today. Opened up the Arp box, took a look at the torque specs and....what??! 90lbft?! All these years on the forums I usually see numbers ranging from 70-80lbft (occasionally I'll see 85lbft here/there) but rarely 90lbft. I can understand this for...

I'm also worried about not to allow dirt/debris to fall into the oil/water holes (especially oil holes). I'm thinking to use masking tape and clean one piston/deck area at a time while the rest will be completely sealed/covered.

Lol Well, hopefully you will see a thread of me building a 1j Mk3 Supra at some point but not because of a crack 7M block or even in my current 1988 (earlier 86'-88' gen Mk3) Supra. Yes, I wanna do a 1jz Mk3 Supra but thats far from now and it would have to be in an 89'+ body style'd Supra; and...

Nevermind those questions about the Felpro HG; I'm reading a link someone sent me a few posts back. Its a "PermaTorque" gasket made w.r.t OEM standards; looks like it doesn't require a re-torque either. Felpro...

Hmm, maybe I should call up Aaron at DM and ask if I can return the Arp studs for bolts instead?? I hear you on the stock bolts though. For ease for installation, it sounds like the bolts are better to deal with however, for a "peace of mind", I would not trust the stock bolts (unknown history)...

Thank you man, I appreciate this. My path of acquiring this Supra (my first Supra) has not come easy/quick. It took time, patience, time, learning, time and oh, patience and more learning to FINALLY get my Supra in October 2013. I've been researching (daily) about Supras since 2006 (got my...

I think I'm going try and do it that way....either that or I'll need to get an engine lift. And by the way SideWinder....you're welcome to take the two hour trip over from Syracuse to my place to help out/give guidance. Lol I don't wanna screw this process up.

Too late for me I guess; I already placed the order for a new stock 7M headgasket and Arps Studs (not bolts) last week; they should be here soon. Its going to be tough now. It's looking like I'm going to need an engine lift to deal with installing the head with the studs already in the...

Thanks man; I didn't have a clue about cleaning agents for carbon deposits of pistons.

Yea man, sorry to be annoying with the paranoid HG issues but the forums stories have taught me to be this way (not to mention rebuild stories, spun bearings 1000miles later and rebuild AGAIN)....stories that is (not advice). Lol Also, wouldn't the process of retorque'ing the stock bolts loosen...

Well, I did call someone at Sound Performance on this matter and they suggested doing the HG job however, they did suggest that if I've never done this before to at least replace the stock bolts with the Arps studs without removing the head. I'm going to at least do that if not the whole HG job...

I will be sending the head off to be resurfaced....not the bottom end (I will use a gasket scrapper on the deck and pistons), it will stay in the car. I will have my new stock HG and Arp studs soon. But yet, I should still leave the HG alone??

Guys....I'm struggling here....what should I do?? I don't wanna leave the HG unattended, blow it, contaminants leak into the bottom end and screw up my bearings causing me to spin them. However, I've never pulled a 7M engine head before let alone clean the deck of the block w/o getting...