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I'm just not sure, the surface job they did on my engine seems to be holding, but I have no way of checking their work. I think I feel insecure because I do not have the measuring devices to accurately check their work. Mainly because I don't have a real reason yet to not trust them. Yeah...

I caught it right away, just as I heard it I garaged her. Doesn't seem too bad at all. I guess the machine shop will let me know tomorrow the minimum that needs to be done. The knock was from me not torquing down #3 rod cap for some reason. I don't know how I could of missed it but after 15...

thanks Lewis

I've been suggested .020 bore&hone, .010 on crank journals if you want to view pics of everything I have them here, http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/3rd%20times%20a%20charm/ labeled "6,5,4"...etc. I want to go with this kit...

bri7man/Brian

Agreed. I'm on my 3rd engine pull since april with only 2-3 months running time. This time it's rod knock(ebay 7mgte). I've done everything myself from no experience and learned more about cars then any of the fake gear heads I know. My mustang buddy who would talk mad trash about my mk3 when...

Yeah I wouldn't take your engine to a regular mechanic. I'd take it to Kaizen Motorsports or DriftMotion.

The knock sound won't go away by pulling the inj clips, it will just not sound as loud. At least in my case. So listen carefully.

I'll have to do that after I yank my motor and repair rod knock damage :biglaugh:

Don't you have the heater on when you do this?

yeah before i took my engine out nobody could hear it but me from 5+ people and people that watched the vids I posted of it here. To me i think its something only an owner knows at first because only you know what your engine normally sounds like. But I definitely do believe RK and valve tick...

Sorry that was kinda harsh.. I'm a little worked up right now and just assumed you threw em in there. It was more advice I wouldn't experiment w/o researching but it looks like you did. I still wouldn't run anything other than bkr7e's but thats just me.

Pretty sure its the housing/dimensions and sensors within it, I would think you kinda just proved the connector is the same, right?

Bkr7e's from Napa. If you're using something else that you don't know shit about... well then that's just not smart imo. Integra or w/e fine but 7m's will not forgive you. At least know about what you're running before you run it.

Exhaust valve clearance is .20-.30mm to be considered in spec. You want as close to .25 as possible. Intake side is .15-.25mm. You want .20mm. You made it way worse which is why its... well worse. That bolt also is fucking gap clearance making your measurements inaccurate. Fix the bolt and...

^^ Here's rod knock. The quality is shit and I didn't rev it because I don't want to scratch up the crank anymore than it may already have, but I think it's pretty obvious.

http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/supra/?action=view&current=PB280012.flv Here's rod knock. The quality is shit and I didn't rev it because I don't want to scratch up the crank anymore than it has, but I think it's pretty obvious.

Man I wish i could say I told you so IJ just to sound cool but even I convinced myself it wasn't present after plastigaging. I would bet money against myself that I read the little label wrong on the wax paper. This is going to be SO MUCH FUN!!!!! Is there a trophy for how many times one...

All I wanted was a quick supra. 8 months of sacrificed weekends and 5 grand later this is where I am.. I plastigaged the motherfuckers, they were in spec. This is bullshit.

http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/supra/?action=view&current=PB280012.flv Sounded like a 2 syllable word I thought I wouldn't hear for a very long time with better flowing oil... Gave it some gas to make sure it wasn't. It was....