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Ian I don't see why they could have reversed? The prongs match up just like they did stock, I even showed a pic of the rod in my 2nd post in how the modded setup compares to the stock setup and both rods have a vertical male end that the metal plate the TPS prongs attach to, the only variable is...

So back to square 1, adjusted TPS where it deflects which is still backwards btw, hits .03 ohms from "1" (infinite) going counter clockwise and on and so I secured it and measured it again at .04 ohms. With this setting I am seeing .003v at .50mm and not seeing 4.5v until 1.60mm So basically...

Thanks JJ! I remember those tests checking out beforehand when I tested with it off the car. I'm getting 4.5v with throttle open and 0.03 when closed from the back of the TPS on the IDL input.

I appreciate your concern but for the 3rd time; I have both of those plates Hvyman, you know... the prongs you are referring to as being different from USDM and JDM. They are 90 degrees out from each other. I had both of those throttle bodies therefore I have both the prong plates the tps...

Yeah IDL and E2 are the bottom ones. But I'm curious when testing the TPS for voltage like IJ and Mkiiichip have said, the correct way to do it is sticking some small pin or paper clip into the back of the connector while it is plugged in right? It's called back wiring right? Tsrm doesn't say...

When testing at the ecu do I unplug the connector and test at the pins? I wasn't sure so I stuck small sewing pins in the back with it plugged in and got IDL-E2 with throttle open no voltage, +B1 to gound 12v, +B to gound no voltage, +B1 to +B 12v. E1 to ground no voltage. I still have the...

I measured IDL-E2 on the ECU with both TPS's and got -0.01v each time open/closed. I was supposed to measure the ECU pins and not the connector right?

First just to be sure.... does this specific test change upon position of tps, If so we need to find a position to secure the tps beforehand. Edit, Wait voltage shouldn't change......

I've done all those, are you talking about IDL-E2 tests? .5mm test checks out and .9mm test.... well these tests are to determine if the tps is calibrated right? Which is the sole purpose of this thread, I can't calibrate it per tsrm. Yes I can get IDL-E2 with .9mm gap to show a resistance...

A measure of resistance testing the IDL pin alone?

The USDM linkage has like 2-3 pulleys leading to the TB pulley, that is utterly retarted. I also am pretty sure it has nothing to do with my issue like I said above. This is because the only difference in TPS' is the plate they connect to like I said above, check this out...

Anyone? I'm just going to adjust it by hand till it's right like I always have but I need to know why the values are reversed or else I'll go crazy.

I need this figured out asap so I'm gonna give some more info. I don't think it's relevant and I'll explain why but here's a mod I did. I wanted both vacc lines on my throttle body and I HATED the USDM linkage so I dismantled the rod that holds the throttle plate and linkage on my jdm body...

I'm trying to adjust my tps per tsrm and I'm seeing avery very strange pattern.. For clarity I quote JSeaman, "turn the TPS fully anti clockwise until you get a 1 (for infinite resistance) then slowly turn it back until it 'deflects' i.e. you get a reading of resistance.." From his guide...

Nice! Same here, I was lucky I got no codes but a couple leaks I fixed here and there. Gonna retorque(on fifth heat cycle) today and take her out for the first time :)

Sick Sick!! I just got mine running a couple of days ago too! Did you already retorque the head after some heat cycles before taking it out or was that it's very first start?

Sorry about the shoulder but congrats on the baby girl!!! :) Will talk to you soon!

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1501&P=1 Part# 15403-42010 Make sure the Union, Union Nut and Sleeve Ball are included with it.

I had the same thing happen to me on my main caps. If there are high spots on the surface take some fine scotch brite and lightly rub it on that area until you think it's safe. That hole is for the Oil Pump Outlet Pipe Union Bolt.

Where art thou? :(