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How exactly did you bypass the VSV? Have you visually verified that the heater control box is in the open position?

Well, that leaves you with one of two possibilities. Either there is something wrong with the new disc... or there was a gremlin that has been exorcised by taking it apart and putting it together one more time.

Really? You can't? Why not? I guess I better take those cones out of my hatch... :(

Looks better than a Mk4. ;)

Been looking around for a while, and I can't find anything like this. So, it's either against the rules, silly beyond belief, or simply nobody has thought of it yet. Or maybe it's unmarketable, I guess. Looking for something like this...

Pretty sure that stock tire size on the Mk4 rims is a 255, so I'd be really surprised if they can't put a 275 on there. Based on your answers a couple posts up: - Find something with a really low durometer - 200 or less would be my recommendation. Won't last for shit, but it'll stick like...

One just went up for sale here, $20. :) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114748

HA! You won't be done then, either. You'll be lucky to make the PacNW meet in late summer! :icon_razz

Hmm... seems like there should be an easier way to check that. Jerry rig a spring on the slave so it doesn't pop all the way out, then measure how much rod movement you get when pushing on the pedal? Compare to another member's car?

I've used Optimas all over... my car, wife's car, boat, etc. Haven't found one to fit my lawn mower yet.

MAFT or MAFT Pro? The Pro system allows you to bypass the HAC sensor, so you wouldn't need to find one... If you're going MAFT basic, try finding one from the guys who have gone MAFT Pro. Anyone with a pre 89 will likely just have it unplugged and still mounted under the glovebox.

No worries, I just like to help make sure everyone has covered all their bases. The other trick you can often pull is to yank a wheel off the front, mount it on the back, and put the donut on the front. Lots more work, but it'll get you to a tire shop.

Well, on the positive side, you'll end up being able to drop the transmission in record time.

That looks fine. You're going to have to make your own wiring to connect it to the car, though. I wouldn't worry about replacing bulbs... I've never seen a real HID bulb burn out. I've seen the ballasts die, but the bulbs are always fine.

Meh... IMO, an engine's death, 99% of the time, is due to owner abuse. Low oil, overheating, driving on BHG, failure to run more than straight water in the cooling system, running no air filter in the desert, etc, etc, etc. I've seen hundreds of dead Supra engines, and I've literally never...

The other common trick is to use 6 different screw bits... Philips, Robertson, Flat, Torx, Allen, and one security bolt, usually an Allen or Torx with a post in the center. Came out to my car one morning to find the window smashed in and 4/12 of my screws removed. Added a glass break sensor...

This is not helpful by any stretch of the imagination. Read the link in my sig to find out why.

If you need to buy a new one anyway, just pick up an aftermarket hardpipe instead. Cost is lower, and it flows better than the stock setup.

If you have the LSD rear, which I'm guessing you do, you're better off pulling out the donut spare and getting a CAA membership instead. Running different sized tires on an LSD isn't a good idea. Nice work, looks well thought out.

If you figure this out, let me know.