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I was just kidding, calm down. There isn't much anyone can do without actually being where you are. Even if we are there, all we could do is point fingers and tell you what you can fix, and what you can't sell on the forum because it has grenade shrapnel in it. I do stand by my post that...

Try sending a picture message to an EMAIL address, it works from my phone and works from all my friends phones. Instead of typing in a phone number, type in whateverthef@hotmail.com (or whatever). Tada. IJ: bearing material can't get past the filter, do you think he sees the remnants of the...

Why are you posting on this god damn forum and not beating your brother and demanding he pay you whatever your car is worth? Don't even come back and answer why you aren't, GO DO IT. Take control of the situation.

Hmm crap, I didn't state that in my post... I'd much rather run a new wire and pin/crimp new plug in terminals than cut and splice. Cutting and splicing is literally on the bottom of the list, looking at my harness and how much of a pain in the ass it is thanks to heat and previous owners...

Can't ever go wrong with double checking my work it seems haha. Yup thats what I plan to follow next weekend to set the timing, I didn't have enough time for the car to reach operating temperature though I had to go back to school. Quick test drive next weekend and a double-check of the timing...

Yes, I've been thinking about that for the past 3 hours, I feel pretty stupid :icon_razz Ah well, at least its fixed. CPS is in the right tooth, I'll fine tune it next weekend in between the re-torque I need to do (warm-up mode had it idling high so it read too retarded when I finally got done...

Yup, dads got an inductive one I was just playing with. Have to move the CPS one tooth over, its at max adjustment and bouncing around 5 BTDC. Revs decent and idles good as it sits so I don't think there's any more problems. Thankee :)

Sonofabitch, I knew it was something simple. When I rewired the CPS back to the ECU I used the wiring diagram and wrote everything down on a piece of paper. Then, before I connected the CPS connector to the harness connector, I scribbled out two blocks with 4 pins and matched them up. Thing...

Did a quick search, gauge fuse works the power windows as well. Windows work. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=12 Should be 12 V between terminal 1 of harness and body ground...there is none. Occasionally my DMM registers .05 or so. Haven't checked the two...

Changed out the fusible link for a block fuse a while back, it looked good the few times I was under the hood. I'll check the gauge fuse as well, although the other gauges work and light up. Going outside now to check if there is power through coil pack harness when ignition is ON. Also going...

First, I apologize...usually when I make threads I find the answer shortly thereafter through sheer luck or a thread I overlooked. So...meh. I'll dump all the important facts and skip how/why I found such things, unless they're relevant...and mostly in chronological order: -changed...

As I've been tracing down a few wiring woes myself (wondering why my temperature gauge doesn't work...I think I hooked the wire up to the wrong connector on the thermostat housing haha) the ONLY way you'll be able to figure out what is what is by using the TEWD. Find exactly what wires are for...

Supracentral had a long post on FMU's, do a search and you'll find it. From what I gathered a 12:1 unit will raise fuel pressure 12 lbs for every lb of boost. At 40 psi base pressure running even 10 psi boost you'll be telling the fuel pump to put out 40 + (10*12) = 160 psi. Don't do it. Get...

They aren't washers. Bottom retainers aka spring seats. Although when I took the head off to do the bhg job last week I found a thick washer instead of a bottom retainer, that was nice.

Sounds good, I always like to know the 'why' behind what is going on. I'll fiddle with it until I can check timing, I know the CEL doesn't illuminate while it is idling. Most likely I'll go drive to warm it up, park it, pull the EFI fuse to reset it and check it there.

Thank you sir!

Background: just finished HG job today, runs as it did before (decent) but has code 52 popping up occasionally, and had code 11 pop up at first startup (hasn't come back). I understand code 52 is the KS code, have to rewire it etc, however I'd very much like to check timing tomorrow morning...

You need to buy the application specific chip from HKS or an HKS vendor for it to work. There is a chip for 550cc injectors.

So what happened with the cookie/bacon exchange? I have way too many christmas cookies here that I don't want, I want bacon.

One piece driveshaft made a big difference for me, I snagged an aluminum one piece from shaftmasters I believe.