Now thats a project! Good luck.
My advice would be: Strip it and have it painted first, it is harder to have a car painted that is already built, and you don't have to worry about the shop taking it out for a joy ride ;)
Haven't heard of any meet. Gota link to the info?
EDIT: I found it, As long as all goes well, (haven't fired her up yet after doing the latest work) I should be able to make it.
I got mine at a "hot-rod" shop in Texas.
Look at Summit racing or Jegs, when I get a chance I'll see what I can dig up.
Edit: I looked on summits site and they have them there, just do a search for reservoir.
Just a thought,
I have an autometer egt gauge. On mine (not sure if all autometers are the same) The two wires coming off the probe are bolted to the wires going to the gauge. I heat shrinked them separately so they do not touch and/or short on anything. I have never had problems with it...
Oh believe me, I trust what both of you guys say!
It was the first start after the rebuild, (about 3 years ago), could have been air in fuel system or something of the sort..I have no clue, but at least now I know it wasn't the CSI ;)
Thanks for the info jdub. I wonder what it was then, once I plugged it back in it ran fine (only ran for < min unplugged) and it was the only time it happened.
I guess it would depend on the solvent used, some specifically state to not use on plastic parts.
BTW, I'm only running mine for a short time, I have brand new RC 550s sitting here for when I put on my maftpro. It only takes one to f-up under boost to destroy stuff. Like I said 120 is cheap...
Can you drift without these? I thought you needed them to be JDM tyte, and THEN you could drift. Don't need anyone getting their ass kicked out on the streets yo.
Are you running a standalone? I guess not if you are worried about codes.
I forgot to plug in my CSI once and the car would barely run when cold, didnt throw any codes, just ran like ass.
The engine needs this added fuel when cold (like a choke on a carburetor). Just unplug it and see what...
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