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If there isn't any suspension on it the wheels will hit the wheelwells and you'll screw up the tires. The tow guy is retarded for suggesting that, hit him with a brick. Fixitman04's advice is sound.

PMed you, but posting here anyways in case you check this first. Thanks :D edit: I'm reading that you need to use the torque plate with the same type of fasteners and headgasket you'll be using for your build (in my case, ARP studs and MHG). Is this true? I don't want to use a brand new MHG and...

I think that's awesome :D Going through harness repair right now, tedious job. I can't see the DS ever going out of balance unless it is hit with a brick.

Duh, wrong page. Thanks for the extra info too. I have this problem but only in winter, had to make liberal use of the passenger door. Figure I should fix it now. Thanks!

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=6703&P=1 ...cancel switch?

I've already done the calculations and not using that brochure, critical speed for our ~40" one piecers is about 11.8k rpm. Most everyone on this board will never go above half that rotational speed, and certainly not for very long. Almost every OEM uses two pieces for ensured sound...

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Toyota/Supra/Brakes/Hand_Brake_Shoes Just bought a bunch of the springs and stuff and didn't buy the shoes, because I forgot (what the hell!)

Except that's a pointless thing to do. There's some horsepower you can free up by going to a lighter driveshaft, no reason to stick with the stock two piece today. I've had mine into the triple digits multiple times and the only problem I had was when I didn't torque the diff bolts (first test...

Just using a seal puller to pop the seal out once the pulley is off?

Glycol has the annoying tendency of adhering to whatever it touches. If it touches a bearing or a bearing surface then oil won't lubricate the surface/bearing. Oil change after major work is definitely a good idea, I agree with that.

It's a turbocharged 3 liter, it will not do a burnout from a standstill if you mash on the gas from idle. If it was a turbocharged 6 liter, it probably would.

People get RK after a HG because coolant ends up getting into the oil while disconnecting hoses, taking the head off etc. If you were careful you should be fine. 10 is too much haha, stick with 6 ish.

FWIW that hose shaded in gray is a 16mm (5/8") coolant hose. I ended up bypassing the whole Toyota rubber thing and bought a silicone variant from here http://www.dphsiliconehose.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 in a vintage black finish that I can't find on their site...

That'll be fine. Napa sells Gates brand hose which is good quality hose, the generic hose other places sell is crap.

What was gap before/after? Awesome numbers, that's crazy!

When you take off the radiator cap is air rushing OUT or INTO the radiator?

We're still waiting for the 10 people correct?

I thought Ishino supplied gaskets to Toyota? Do you happen to know anything about them?

Oil change with filter, I'd leave the coolant if it looks good without sludge and gunk in it. ALL coolant hoses, ALL vacuum hoses, oil/power steering/tranny hoses as necessary. Plugs definitely. Plug wires with OEM if necessary. I might even try to clean up all the grounds with a wirebrush, and...

Thanks for coming back into the thread and updating it, wish more people did that! Sucks you couldn't diagnose it at all but at least it works.