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Ahh, I have an m16x1.5 in the cold start timer switch, a/c fan switch and aux fan switch sensors, they are all the same. Is the BVSV 3/8 BSPT or is it some other vague thread?

Report back with what size actually fits and doesn't leak. m12 seems too small, and I have my notes saying m16x1.5 fit.

There's been a few threads on this before, but they are not NPT and not BSPT, they are metric non-tapered thread. Most are M16x1.5, the big BVSV is something else (still unsure). http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?196526-Coolant-gauge-sensor&highlight=m16x1.5 I bought some NPT...

The nut looks like its missing, or did you take it off? Get the alternator rebuilt, there's a reason its smoked and I doubt its the portion of the stud you can see.

The upper control arms don't have replacement ball joints because they hardly go bad. You need to replace the whole arm as a unit. Keep the stock arm (I'm sure its fine) and use poly throughout.

If you have a throttle pulley with multiple holes in it, just slide the barrel in and fab up a bracket to tighten the two nuts in between. It operates opposite the throttle cable though, so it'll be on the other side of the pulley. The line pressure cable pulls out at WOT, increasing line pressure.

Most carbon fiber stuff is not all carbon fiber...its 2-3 layers of fiberglass then a layer of carbon fiber on top for looks. Warping does happen with fiberglass parts depending on temperature/humidity and how thoroughly it was cured.

Buy online, crank bearing sets are a little under $200 from Toyota there. Local dealers are usually ripoffs.

They do nothing more than keep the cover on. I'd find shorter bolts just to keep it on.

Initially, I put on all the shims, measured depth after it was installed and compared it to what it needed to be...did the math and said 'I need x more shims'. After it got ground down, I put x amount of shims on and checked the pattern and it was pretty close. From there I adjusted shims...

You need to grind it down in order to get the pinion shims correct, yes. Otherwise you wont be able to install the lsd case because itll bump into the pinion. Unsure what he used but it wasnt a milling machine, it was a face grinder of some sort.

That's the end of the pinion that will be machined down. The number on the bottom, 2.466", is the checking distance (distance from the face of the pinion to the ring center line) for optimal contact, give or take a few thousands. The problem is, the LSD case is 5" in diameter, meaning the...

No, I was just saying I had no issues with mine. The instructions say to drive easy and at different speeds for the first 500 miles to break the gears in...afterwards do a fluid change and you're good to go. If you don't break them in right (like all gears) they'll whine and you'll need to...

Gotcha, not a problem lol. I have the receipt and a few pictures of the install still on my phone, it fits and works great. No noise after about a thousand miles. Cruising with the TC locked up on the highway is awesome, rpms are at 2300 at 70 mph.

I bought them and installed them haha. You won't be able to set pinion depth without taking off .100" off the end of the pinion if you have an LSD so that'd be the first thing I'd do, other than that its a straight forward install. I think I had .075" taken off to just barely make it fit, .100"...

That's normal, autos all things equal will see a bit less pressure than manuals. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=TC&P=5

The only way to change the rear end ratio is to swap out your ring and pinion for a different ratio ring and pinion. FWIW the 3.54 gear ratio fits our diffs (you'll have to grind the end of the pinion down .100" though because the LSD case interferes with it)...

I'm looking for this myself haha. 55441-14100-02 is maroon, 55441-14100-03 is gray, 55441-14100-04 is blue, 55441-14100-05 is beige/brown. I'd even settle for a flat piece of black plastic that clips into place. Good place to add more switches to in the future.

If you have a big enough socket (my dad has a 3/4" drive socket set with sockets bigger than 1") find one the size of the sleeve and smack it with a sledge, it should pop right out. Satan's right, some of them have a lip and need to be pushed out a certain direction. My rusty NY subframe...

SP has a 6262 bolt on which yes, will hit 500 whp on E85 easily. Pump gas will get you close but I doubt you'll hit 500.