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Wow! I have to go check my upper bearing plates right away. That must be why my car makes noise when I hit the steering stops. Thanks for cluing me in guys.:evil2:

Man! I'm so sorry to see this, and I echo all those who are glad you're OK. I just have to say, after reading all the posts, that I have to disagree with everyone who says the car is replaceable. Each and every one of these cars, has developed a personality of their own over the years, and mods...

A lot of the npr products you see on ebay, and elsewhere, are cheap chinese knockoffs. Stay away. I got my pistons, rings, and bearings, on ebay, but the manufacturer was Evergreen autoparts. Seen at least one other guy on here with that brand of parts, and never saw anything bad about them...

First, send me a pic of the block surface, so I can see how bad it is. After i see it, and if it looks good enough to refinish, I'll give you my phone #, cause it will take forever to try to right it all down in a post. I'm a lousy typist.

My experience with rebuild kit valve cover gaskets, has been good so far. If I had the money though, I would have gone for the Toyota parts.

Yeah! So there! +1. Read and learn, or fail miserably. If anyone out there lives near the OP, go find him, and give him a slap, and tell him to just use the head. IT WILL WORK!:icon_bigg

Slim, remote possibility, as the dryer should have removed any moisture. Unless his dryer is bad.

The first click is for winter time. It allows you to leave the headlights up, so they don't freeze closed, and break something when you try to open them. Try it. Turn headlights on, click back 2 clicks, and see if the headlights don't stay up. Not on, just up.

Get a us spec setup, from junkyard, or the dealer, or maybe somebody here has a spare.

C'mon, everybody wants halo's don't they?

Big enough boost leak, and you run so rich, the car acts a lot like fuel cut. Bogs right down.

An automotive style stethoscope will definitely work better than a screwdriver.

Super great thread, made me totally rethink my next build project, if it ever comes up that is. If all stays well with my current engine, and I get a good paying job in the f-ed up state of Mass., I'm going 2jz. Already, since reading this thread, I'm planning on having the head heated and...

Shims from the dealer, are about 7.00 a piece, IIRC. Multiply that by the # of shims you need. I've seen that you can use some motorcycle shims instead, which are cheaper, but I can't remember which brand at the moment.

If a valve is too loose, it will make noise all the time, hot cold, whatever.

Just playin again, IJ.

I wasn't saying he should get that one particularly, just using that as a quick to find example of what I was talking about.

Another route to go, would be to isolate the piping before the manifold, and take that possibility out of the equation. Just test the piping first, and if it holds pressure, it would indicate a manifold leak. You could always reconnect it and try it the hard way after, if it made you feel better.

It ain't that difficult to tighten the bolt at ride height, so why even try to get away with it?

Those f-ing young guys are a pain in the ass, eh?