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your close enough the to bay area... go on craigslist, or hit up the bay area pick and pulls, there ALWAYS a non turbo 7m in one of em... at least that way you can see how many miles are on the engine, and if your gonna rebuild it, it wont matter if it has BHG or rodknock... my last supra had...

do you know why the car overheated on the g/f though? was it due to a bhg? stuck thermostat? bad radiator cap? i think you should really address the issue of figuring out WHATS wrong vs. just slapping on new heads and head gaskets... and if your block has been through that much hell... i highly...

90% of the rebuild kits are incomplete... which is why its just easier, and a hell of a lot less stressful to buy a whole new one. but theres a c-clip thing inside, you need to clean all the grease out, and unless your kit came with a new piston, then there wont be any o-rings on it...

when you cruise its mostly controlled by the ECU anyways... 11.5-12 on the dyno is fine... i just wanted to be sure for your engines sake!

bleach + burning out = fireeee!!!! my dad always told me stories of him doing it... haha

i feel kinda dumb... cause i honestly never saw the pipe leading from the heater union bolt in the diagram... but i still stand by my statement that its better to have the "to heater" to the "from heater"... unless you weld shut the union.... nice catch. im usually online when im half asleep...

if your AFR's are at 14 or 15 you'll blow the motor... most around here like 11.5:1 on a daily driver, a lot of "max power" people run 12.5:1 for the extra power... 20g's can run upwards of 20psi... there a pretty decent sized turbo, and you have the tdo6 hotside, so thats pretty large as...

if you look at the link i posted, it shows the flow diagram of the system. the coolant goes throug the back of the head (cooling off the back of the head) and the front by the thermostat housing. if you have hot coolant just sitting there, and nowhere to go but the opposite way of where its...

its defintaley a work in progress, and i really hope you go the whole 9 yards on this and finish it the proper way... just look at tekdeus(sp?) car... his car is soooooo fuckin clean! best of luck to ya!

the HKS downpipe isnt that great, especially since you mention NOTHING of the elbow being a high flow unit. but i'll assume that you did replace it. because the stock elbow is the biggest restriction in the exhaust system besides the downpipe. and i bought an hks downpipe, didnt even like how...

if you "bypassed" the switch it would be how i said, but you just closed the valve, essentially cutting off the coolant from the heater core. which isnt the best way to do it... but it gets the job done.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=2 connect "to heater" to the "from heater" with a NEW hose... is that really hard? but the heater core is another place for the heat to escape from... so i dont see why you just dont fix the heater core instead...

im below $3 a gallon for 91!!!!!!!!! and im loving every minute of it... but i know it wont last...

you could use the stock bracket, just get a bigger calmp... or just make a new bracket, its not that hard to do. but if your going to drive around with an open downpipe, i would suggest you use the stock one vs the BIC one, cause the stock one is a lot quiter vs the 3''

how is fluttering a "sign" of compressor surge? i have a greddy bov that flutters at 1-3psi, but as soon as you get on it, and you shift, no flutter.

was the flywheel installed like so? it looks rusty...

which flanges you need? cause my one cat is like a 2.5'' and the other one is something like 2.25... IJ - its too early here... whats the meaning behind your picture? lol

even with a BHG he'll make more than 10rwhp. hahaha ::bhg::

8...

if you cant even boost it you have a HUGE boost leak.