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well I will tell you, since you are running just wastegate boost, and not using your controller that the proper fix is to enlarge the wastegate hole on the turbo so that the wastegate can evacuate more air around the turbo. I run the DDP as well and my car fuel cut in every gear but first...

Im 100% positive that putting a muffler on a straight pipe will not make it louder. My muffler definitely makes it slightly quieter, but mostly makes the sound much less raw.

The straight pipe really is not that loud if your comparing it to other NA performance cars. Compared to stock yes its loud. Compared to any brand new car its loud. Compared to a V8 NA car with performance exhaust it is quiet. But as I said i drive by cops all the time, and as long as I...

lexus and 440's is not a bad idea if done properly. Just throwing the lexus on a car with 440's is a very bad idea and will cause the motor to run lean. But with an AFPR and SAFC a lex with 440 setup will work just fine but needs to be tuned. If do not want to tune, change fuel pressure etc...

well i can hear the turbo pretty well in the car too. The BOV is a SSQV without the insert.

This is somewhat true, there are engine speeds where the car will drone, at 72 on the highway with both the 2.5 and 3.5 inch straight pipe it is barely louder than stock. At 45 going up a hill in 5th it is pretty droney. This can all be changed with gear selection, but truthfully it is not...

Well I used to run the stock DP into a 2.5" straight pipe. Then I went to the BIC with 2.5" straight. Then to the 3.5" with a res and muffler. Then to a 3.5" without the res and muffler but the ability via Vband to switch it back and forth (muffler's to straight pipe). Straight pipe has...

Well I have to disagree with a lot of people on this. I run a BIC DDP to 3.5" straight pipe on my car and really like it. I also have V band at the end to switch to a muffler and do switch back and forth on occasion. Most people really like the straight pipe sound and you can really hear...

well dumb ideas should not be done...hence why nobody has done it.

paging Jdub! but I think boosted air will mess up the vortices the AFM produces to measure air flow.

I think he is missing the pipe that goes through the fender/unit body.

If I were you and I had as much money as you say you have for your car. I would 1) Fix the head gasket if you verify it is actually leaking - make sure you are doing the test right 2) not change piston rings 3) make sure you did not spin a bearing...I don't think you spun one from your videos...

easiest way to verify its the alternator is to check voltage at the battery when the car is running. It should be ~14 v. Turn on the headlamps/blower to full speed/ and defrost on to make sure the alternator can still keep up.

cruise control...

i would just adjust the steering stops.

Nope haven't done this yet, I guess I will try that next. It seems to be a common consensus that the CPS could not be the cause just due to higher than normal resistance so I have to keep trying things. Well we have something slightly in common here. When I first got my car and all last year...

No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked doesn't this imply that the motor is cranking for 2 seconds with no signal? I had a no start issue with my starter and I never received a code 12 when the starter would just click. I doubt the starter is the cause of...