And too add, since I didn't quite see the info he is probably looking for:
-The ECU was designed to work properly at the temps it came with. Not 160. Bad idea because the car will run like shit. Cooler temps - does not equal performance all the time. I ran into a few ricers who swore they got...
Exactly. I love soundslikesemi87's car because he's got the same basic setup at 15-18 psi. That thing made me smile big time and is a huge testament to what proper tuning and engine prep can do with a stock composite gasket and ARP hardware.
Nevermind, I finally found the info! Just had to go through my 20 firefox windows I opened while searching...
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71028&highlight=tachometer+chassis
Searched, couldn't find quite what I was looking for.
In short: 87 N/A chassis. putting in rebuilt 87 7mgte. Have all electronics (87 ecu, harness, etc).
My issue: I do not feel comfortable soldering the n/a tach PCB board to make it work with the gte ecu. Will a turbo tach PCB board...
Makes good sense to keep it. Why mess with something that was designed to do a job? If you change the way a device works, it is no longer performing it's intended job, which could have unforeseen consequences. Not that cleaning things up and getting rid of completely unnecessary things is bad...
The original bypass valve allows the air that is being released when you let off the throttle to be funneled back to the front of the turbo. Pulling it off so that it vents to the atmosphere will do the same thing as an aftermarket BOV. The stall is only because of the extremely rich condition...
Replacing the stock bypass valve with an atmospheric BOV, you do not create any leaks as long as the BOV is tightened correctly but is still loose enough to react quickly to a change in boost.
It still works the same as any BOV, it just creates a rich condition because pre-metered air is...
I found that when I test drove the V6 and GT models for the new 2010 Mustang, they do the same thing. It goes down about 1.5-2 inches when you open/close the door, and then seals up against the frame again. Seems to allow little/no damage or wear on the weather stripping and is a great idea!
From all that I have heard from certain members, the only differences between the N/A head and Turbo head I am aware of are the cams. (Someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong so I don't sound like an idiot)
Why go through all the trouble to drill for oil squirters, when you can get a 7mgte bare...
My New Baby! Washed today and there is a very nice difference! My old white 89 had a horrible paint job, and I love the interior on this one! :love:
I do hate what they did to the front bumper though... Ouch. :3d_frown:
All I need once she is running is a good buff, minus the small areas...
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