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why bother with just one hose? replace every hose you can see, if ones gone to crap its only time before the rest go... PREVENTATIVE MAINTENCE is your best friend with a supra.

well from a feeler stand point... i would have to see a dyno graph and see if these made a difference. because like the other guy said, $300 could be spent on quite a few other things that i would need more than a set of pulleys... BUT, if they dyno proven to gain something like 10hp/15tq...

could get a fuel cell... but that depends if you wanna go and pay for all of the stuff to properly install it.

OEM is like 190? but yeah, he is wasting fuel... i would check the thermostat, and also check the rad cap. pressurize the system and see if you have any leaks that only show up under high pressure.

sorry i didnt make it clear what i meant. i meant to say port the combustion chamber, and cut out the "quench pads" i believe that are, and open it up, like the group A head.

it could be your rad cap not holding the pressure at high speeds. but dont confuse high pressure with high heat, because when the system is really hot and you take the cap of, there is pressure, but its from the heat of everything. in all honesty, sounds like your engine is fucked... but i...

could have always tried it and see how the ECU reacted... i would have loved to taken my n/a to the point of 180-200whp... but i just couldnt see spending that kind of money without making it a semi-race/autocross car.

i liked the mounting of it in the spare tire well. that was REALLY clean. im going to see where i can cut into and have a box semi-drop down so i can have it flush in the trunk so you dont even see it.

isnt 34 fuel cut? if so, then its probably a boost leak... make sure your o2 sensor is clean, and it may need a new one. make sure your afm has a clean air filter and isnt clogged. make sure the connector is 100% on and seated onto the AFM.

His pricing is spot on as far as im concerned... those are some large chunks of aluminum, the machining, and then the coating, it adds up. the other set of aftermarket pulleys thats offered, made by beech performance, is $300 also... so i dont see the big deal... two vendors, same product...

dont you start with me mr. aussie i sold my last car for a few reasons. :sarcasm:

hahahaha... that would really blow! we need the opener to report back obvisouly... i thought about the air thing, but eh... shouldnt over heat that bad. mine just had little temp spikes when it had air in it.

IJ, then why would he pull the cap and REFILL the radiator? if the coolant is just overheating then it would just overheat, but hes saying he refills the radiator, which to me, means a loss of coolant. so hes either burning it, or somethin...

my 86.5 didnt have the shroud, undercover, and the coolant lines were routed WRONG. and it still did fine... theres more to the story then whats hes saying... he may have a cracked block from all of the over heating for all we know. and IJ, this is what throws me off "and it...

THATS why my clutch fan sits so freakin close to the radiator. the mounting points on the green base are a good 3-5mm taller than the red/brown base clutch... f-this, im going to go and find me a brown base clutch to move it back so i can space my radiator a little... i thought it was just my...

bullshit, GTFO. and in all honesty, pull your thermostat, go drive around after you re-burp the system, and see if it still overheats, sounds like your thermostat isnt opening and your pressure is building up and then pouring your coolant the overflow and thus you over heat. no...

the shop really told you 20% retarded? do they mean 20 degrees? all that is, is just adjusting it properly, and setting it all up right. but if your crank pulley wobbels, you'll NEVER get the timing right anyways. best of luck to you though, its a learning process and sometimes it just...

i wouldnt get lower compression pistons, would rather port the head to compensate for the CR. and how do you "redo" the oil channels? doesnt a hot tank clean all of them out? cranks are the same for turbo and non turbo... but what is this talk about the OEM valves being forged? thats the...

mine needed modification, but thats because its HUGE and probably bigger than the "replacement" koyo and pwr. and mine was a haste.

some cars, you have to call and find out.