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If you have a knock sensor code chances are you'll need to do a knock sensor re-wire. Faulty knock sensor wiring can cause the problem you're describing.

Still plugging away at it. Added new knock sensor wiring to the engine harness. Found some really nice shielded wire from aircraft spruce. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html I just need to find some knock sensor plugs and terminals. Also added the wiring for the boost solenoid...

if you're 100% confident its wiring in correctly tak the 4 screws out the back of the SAFC and make sure the internal plug where the wiring goes is firmly seated. I had this issue at one point. Hopefully its a simple fix like mine.

You're making some good progress quickly. Do you plan on pulling the block to get checked and lapped for the MHG? Also I would recommend pulling the rotating assembly apart and checking the bearings to see if anything is worn. Depending how long the previous owner drove with coolant in the oil...

Can't wait to see what you do with this. PM coming your way about parts.

Nice to see another Bostonian on here. That 240z sounds sweet i'd love to check it out in the springtime. Good job saving it from the scrap! Let me know if u need any parts i've still got a bunch of random supra shit laying around.

That paint is soooo clean im jealous! Looks like you're making some very quick progress as well. Turbo adapter and downpipe look nice. I may have missed it but what are you doing for engine management? Hopefully i'll be able to come down to some CT meets in the spring and check it out.

Thanks for following along guys. Today I was able to get a work table in my garage and finished wiring up the lights in there. Also pulled a spare front end assembly apart to salvage the steering rack. Going to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint, new inner and outer tie rods, and...

Thanks. Damn that's a cheap shot. :biglaugh: Realistically as long as there's no delays with the engine I'd like to be driving it in April.

So here we are a year later and some shit is going down. Lets see if i can pick this up where i left off.... After fixing the issues caused by the fusebox I put my focus toward getting the engine to run 100%. There was always that fuel issue and electrical problem that plagued me. The coolant...

It's just an idler pulley now that he's running dry sump. The oil pump driveshaft and pulley is what I was most curious about. I guess dry sump is an "easy" way to solve those problems. :biglaugh:

That is INSANE!!!! Would love to read more on the specifics on how this 7M was built and parts used.

I need a set of front subframe yellow's to match my rears i did a few years back. Do you have any in stock? Price shipped to 02072? Thanks

As someone that has bought an already built engine, my advice to you is to get EVERYTHING double checked. Have the entire rotating assembly checked, all clearances and bolt/nut torques at the very least.

Inspect and reinforce the rear subframe. Ronnie K subframe bushings are always a nice addition.

Why can't fruit be compared? As badass as an aftermarket 7m head would be it's never going to happen. Look at the LIPP FFIM for example. On the topic of FFIM's how much of a difference in powerband is the intake runner ports going to have overall? More specifically the transition from the...

There's a plug going from the fuseblock harness to the engine harness. The C1 plug is a 6 pin connector that supplies the ecu with the M-rel and Batt signals. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=26

Did you check for any codes?

You can get a piece of bent alum tubing and bring it to a shop to have them cut the dented part and weld on the new elbow.

The sensors have a dedicated ground from the ECU, you can't ground the TPS, IAT, MAP, or coolant temp sensor to chassis ground.