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http://www.nokiantires.com/dealer-locator :) Our climate is almost exactly the same: http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimatology/monthly/graph/CAXX0518

If you're going to claim personal injury from your car, use the exploding flywheel excuse next time, it's a lot more believable.

Lots of folks have done this, and the vast majority of them have quickly discovered it's a seriously bad idea. Those lights are great if you're building a show car that doesn't actually drive, but they are complete junk if you need light to see by. Putting genuine HID lights that *work* in...

Speculation says that the vacuum diaphragm in the Bosch units vibrates like a reed and makes this sound.

Well, average daily commute here is 30-50 miles, and they are lasting 3-4 years for those that drive aggressively.

The Nokian WR that I mentioned has fantastic grip in colder weather. Most of my friends use them year round here. Is it as good as a dedicated set of winter tires, with another set of high performance tires for summer? No... but it's DAMN close.

Notice the pic? The number on it is the part number from Toyota...

That would be awesome. This one here? I can correct that on the page.

With the engine off, run the exhaust from the vacuum cleaner into the tailpipe, then spray around the probably leaky areas with the soapy water? I'd suggest doing this when the engine is cold...

I would not recommend using an ultra high performance summer tire in cold weather. I've done it, and as soon as the temps drop to even NEAR freezing, like below 10C / 50F, you lose a lot of grip. As a matter of fact, I don't get the full benefit unless the temps are really quite high, near 30C...

That doesn't matter. You can make the problem occur essentially on demand, right? So run an extra ground, and take it out for a spin. It doesn't have to be pretty, just run a wire from the battery, up the fender, out from the back of the hood, through the driver's window, across the dash...

It does say Motorcraft on it. Funny thing, though, whenever I went to get some from the Ford dealer, they would ask me what vehicle it's for. I'd tell them it wouldn't help, they argue, so I give in and tell them it's for a Toyota Supra. The look of outright shock on their face is predictably...

Well, first off, do you have a multimeter? Second, do you know how to use it?

~5000k, more if it's been slow speed city driving, less if it's been high speed freeway cruising.

You do realize that there are two sides to the power circuit, right? Have you checked the grounds? And have you checked the grounds for the manifold they bolt to?

At this rate, I'm going to get charged with Trophy Smuggling at the border on my way home.

Peace of mind is worth a few $$$... and realistically, new bolts / studs are *not* a big investment.

I just ran into the same problem working on my brother-in-law's POS Sunfire. Had to replace the exhaust, but the old bolts had decided that too many heat / cold cycles meant they should not only rust all the corners off the bolt heads, but weld themselves to the threads. There were three...

Until I switched to a Cusco rear diff, I always used Ford oil, based on this note from Reg Reimer: http://www.suprasonic.org/public_html/sonictech/mk3/mk3_pmtn.html The Ford oil comes in two parts now, the oil itself and a small container of friction modifier that you add. It's cheap, easy...

A few things... That looks like a PWR radiator, and yes, they are quite good. Best on the market, IMHO. Even so, as JJ pointed out, there are several other factors that can cause overheating. I've seen quite a few electric setups by now, and I've never seen one that moves as much air as the...