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There is no way you can do it from under the car. Only way to do it is from the top.

What you have here is a Boost Leak. The code you are getting is basically the AFM seeing to much air. Without a boost leak you will be able to hit around 13psi before seeing this code. Check for Boost Leaks...they can be hard to track down sometimes but I'm 100% sure this is your problem.

sounds like a great parts car...but don't buy it thinking of fixing it. Won't be the worth the time or money most likey.

with stock DP I my boost would drop off bad at higher RPM's. I got one of these with the stock elbow and it made a huge difference. For the money its a nice upgrade.

Do you know if the heated mirrors work off of a different relay and breaker from the rear defroster?

Don't be sorry, just trying to keep the flames down to a slow burn :-)

Jeffy thats the nicest thing you have ever said to me............... BTW...I got a set of TT's as well...tires are crap though. Matt is thinking about getting some tires and rockin those. mattjk, I love the setup. As for being stiffer then stock, my guess would be yes...but I don't' really...

Here's a picture of my car with my new wheels. Got these last night, They are 17" Konig Monsoon's I think 8" up front 9.5 in the rear...Basically the same size and offset of TT Wheels.

You can push it to around 13-14 psi before you will hit Fuel Cut out. Though I have heard plenty that is around where the limit of the ct26 is. I ave been running mine maxed out for about 9 months without problems yet. But I don't drive it like a mad man either. Also do some searching...this...

I think the 0w scares people making them think its really thin all of the time....what you need to understand is that the 0w is referring to the viscosity when its cold so it flows like a 0w oil when cold which means it will flow much better at cold start up which is what you want and the other...

I'm having this same problem kind of. My mirrors heat up but the rear window defroster does nothing. I'm interested in the same info.

So the car was fine before the rebuilt turbo was installed? I'm kind of wondering if its not Fuel Cut you are having if this is the case then it sounds like you have a boost leak. It can be a real pain to get the boost hose that goes to the turbo back on right. I have seen them go on...

PERMA BAN...this fool!

What kind of lip is that?...I like it as well and need one myself.

just 1j after your done with yours.

Go 1j

When you clear the code and start the engine up without driving it does it come back or is it only after you drive the car? Here is what could cause a True Knock. To much timing Low Octane or Crap Fuel Carbon Buildup Running Lean under boost Wrong Temp Spark Plugs I'm sure you have checked...

Rust=Weight Reduction Probably the lightest 7mgte in the world.

if you where going to do a total rebuild I bet it would work for that, if I could pick it up for 10 bucks I would take it. also you could sell the turbo for 100 bucks to some ricer on ebay.

sounds like an inside joke to me. *cough* that isn't rust *cough*