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Thanks. I don't think I will be running a CC so would I be alright just running a silicone line off the TB port, then using a barbed>AN fitting and running braided stainless to tie in with the existing lines? Is the size of this line important?

I've been thinking of how to do it. It didn't have it done before. How would you route it? I know that I need to connect the throttle body port to the two existing lines on the cam covers. I was thinking of connecting those two lines to each other and tieing in another line from the TB. Not...

Finally got some time and warm weather. Spent a few hours each day this weekend doing things. Got the engine and trans oil changed. 0w30 Castrol for the engine and MT90 for the trans. Put the shifter back in too but I have since ordered new bushings so it will come back out. I clocked the turbo...

I guess that would work...except the base of the windshield is a high pressure area so the hot air doesn't escape.

The front timing cover would be my guess. If you didn't take it to them and specify that it needed to be done it is likely that they didn't do this necessary step.

Widest I have ever seen in the front were 9's. A 10" with a 35 offset will sit out pretty far. This means you will likely have to roll and run a stretched tire to make it fit. They would also rub before the wheel reached lock. It would make more sense to run a smaller rim with the same amount of...

It's different for Mk2s because of the sidewall aspect ratio. On a lower profile tire for a 17" or 18" rim, 245 on a 7" wheel looks very bulgy and will adversely affect handling. However, a 245 on an 8 inch is no problem. No excess bulge and it fills the rim well. Also, for a 9.5 inch rim I...

Looks good. Now do the IS300 coil mod.

Coolant: Toyota red Rear Diff: Toyota w/ Ford friction modifier Tranny: Redline MT90 Oil: Castrol Syntec 0w30 Power Steering: Haven't bought that yet. Brake/Clutch: Wilwood DOT 4 Muffler Bearings: The expensive ones. The guy at Parts Source said they were the best. High temp rated or something...

Before my car goes into the bodyshop for paint, this part along with a new lip will be in hand. This is a great product and I hope interest continues so it is available when I am ready.

LMAO @ the guy posting Fikse in this thread. The guy is looking at getting cheap, narrow wheels and you post a set that are 8 times his budget.

Hey. I have a carbon fiber piece for between the cam covers if you want. You need to replace that damn thing! lol

Dans car makes me seriously consider going back to a pre 89 bumper on my car. When the car goes into the bodyshop that decision will need to be made. There are some good looking cars in here. Keep it up.

I will never understand the point of buy a complete piece of junk for $500 when you can buy a Mk3 in good shape for a couple grand. Hell, save up 6 grand and get something in great shape with some mods. It will probably be cheaper and a hell of a lot easier in the long run.

Damn that is sexy. Why has it missed the mark? Seems like it should do everything you want it to.

I think that is the bracket that the engine damper is attached to. It is found at the back of the block on the drivers side.

Did some more playing with wires yesterday. Got the rest of the engine connectors complete. Connected the engine harness to the chassis harness behind the battery. Adjusted the the wiring a bit so the alternator wiring would reach it in its new position. The got that belt tensioned properly. I...

Wow those don't fit. Time to cut off the fenders and build some flares or go back to the drawing board.

I don't know what you're asking. I don't know the brand of it. I have no way to determine it. Anyways, got the diff in. Bolted up the axles and driveshaft so the rear end of the car is done. Now time to start slowly putting the engine bay together. Lots to do.

Not sure who the manufacturer of the manifold is. Seond hand to me. The spacer works perfectly to get the turbo up nice and high. I will see if I can find a picture of it.