my basic plan for my hatch (last on the list of things to do for my car): ditch the spare tire. fiberglass a box into the spare tire well to hold the subs with a contour, paint it body color; make the entire hatch one level (no drop down from the level between the shock towers); inset my amp...
a turbo lexus dynoed recently and with no correction was quite a bit lower than the dynojet he dynoed on last time. so i dunno, im no expert, just passing on what my freinds shop said.
ya, our local dyno shop has a dyno dynamics, and they give 2 sheets, one with X = 0 which is true hp, and one that has x = 1.17, which gives you dynojet style numbers. they suggest the dynojet numbers are purely for comparison.
new IC piping, new IC, but if you buy one of Rons or Seths or whoevers manifold, its a bolton manifold, theres just other fabrication to do as well. on a scale of 1 - 10, id say its a 9.
a common leaking spot is right be the CPS gear, where it goes from a flat to a curved surface. you need to put RTV in there, as the valve cover gasket will not seal into the corners. doing this, i have not had any leaks, and in my opinion, there is no need to use RTV around the entire cover...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.