That's great! At first I didn't think it would be worth the $$, but that is a LOT of midrange gain! It doesn't look like it's a restriction up top either. You're renewing my interests in this valve Brad ;)
I'm in the process of installing my AFPR right now and I have all stainless braided lines (all 3: stock feed at the bracket bolted to the block to fuel rail, rail to AFPR, AFPR to tank return). Now the braided lines are actually rubber that is lined with braided SS. Is the braid really stiff...
I guess I should have worded it differently. ;)
I know it needs to be cut out, but I'm afraid the grinder might kick a little too much in there and take out some of the surrounding wires. I'm currently working on pulling back most of the wiring harness to get it out of the way. I'm just looking...
I'm going to bump this thread, as I just got my intercooler mounted and I am going to make the intercooler pipes. What tool should I use to remove the battery tray?
Take it to the dealer for the "unintended acceleration" recall? ;)
In all seriousness, like mentioned before I guess the throttle cable/linkage would be the first place to start.
It's right next to the fuse box. I borrowed this picture from JSeaman's guide:
Shorting those two will power up the fuel pump (with the ignition on) without the engine running.
Name: Andy
I live in Uniontown (Akron/Canton area) and I have a '92 Teal. It is down for the winter for a Walbro fuel pump, battery relocation, and a FFIM conversion. I hope to have it back on the road for springtime!
You'll have to trace it back from there. Did you check the voltage at the chassis-side connector under the cover? I would check to see if you have voltage at the fuel pump relay next. This diagram from the TSRM should help:
Well, instead of insulating the box itself, I have decided to get some transparent heat shrink tubing from McMaster and wrap the ring terminals. Also on the list is a protective cover for the circuit breaker so nothing in the hatch accidentally grounds it out to the chassis.
Those were my thoughts too. I think I'm just going to cover the side of the box with some type of insulating material. Those were the only 0 gauge ring terminals I could find that were decent quality. I'm not sure why they would expose the metal like that.
Wrapped up my battery relocation, and fuel pump rewire (12v mod + direct power from battery) today. I still need to wire the distribution block in the engine bay, but everything in the hatch is mostly finished. As always, lots of pics!
Splicing the 10-gauge wires onto the stock pump wiring. I...
Why jump to conclusions? From his explanation it sounds like he was leaking coolant not burning coolant and fixing the hoses helped.
rasmussenbc: as gaboon said, pictures are worth a thousand words here. Also, compare your hose routing to the diagram in the TSRM:
I agree, and from what I've heard there are usually two failsafes on most drive-by-wire systems. I would think Toyota of all companies would have this in place; but if not, big fail on their part.
I personally wouldn't feel comfortable in a car without some sort of manual override.
Correct me if I am wrong, but if the throttle is stuck open won't there be very little vacuum in the manifold to power the brake booster? I guess this all depends on how much vacuum it requires to provide adequate assist.
Summit raceway in Norwalk is a nice strip from what I hear (one of the best). Other than that I don't know as I'm not a big drag racing fan. I'm more of a road course guy (I hope to track one of my cars at Nelson Ledges one of these summers :) )
I don't have any direct experience with the school but from what I've seen/heard it seems nice. So you're moving to Ohio from Florida? You'll enjoy the winters we have ;) Maybe we'll see each other at a meet. In any case, good luck!
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