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Nope. I've had that gasket removed for a couple years now with no ill effects. I drive through some pretty nasty rain storms too. The lip of the hood is far enough away from the firewall that rain doesn't get in. If you purposefully sprayed water directly in you might be able to get water on...

No FCD would be a horrible idea. You currently have a boost leak if you're hitting FCO that low. Fix your boost leak, and when you can hit 11-12 psi without FCO then it's safer to mess with your AFM. Personally I would not run the FCD, the way it removes FCO is very unsafe. I'd recommend...

7m is a very hot motor, especially the turbo. It's normal to see heat waves coming out the sides of the hood. If you're really worried buy an aftermarket guage, the stock one is horribly inaccurate.

Make sure your tensioner bolt is snugged down so that it cannot be moved. Also check the timing belt for any signs of wear, missing chips, scratch marks, etc. That can be indicative of the guides not working properly.

Anyone who sells HKS products can get these.

The only other insert that changes the sound is the purple one. It removes a lot of the high pitched whistle and makes the SSQV sound more like a standard BOV but still with a little of the signature whistle. It was simply too quiet for my tastes so I went back to the silver insert. The gold...

You'd still need some sort of bracket. The throttle body needs to be pulled towards the passenger side to open up, while the cable can only provide a pulling towards the driver side motion. You could loop it around something or make your own bracket, but the N/A setup wouldn't help you.

Code 52 will sap a lot of power as well as the O2 code can make the car run poorly. You have to drop the tank to replace the pump, you don't have to drop the tank to replace the filter.

Depends on your stand. The bolt only needs to go about an inch into the motor, the rest is taken up by your engine stand.

There's nothing to gain. The N/A setup is just as big and bulky as the turbo setup.

Even if you've just got the stock piping you can buy a basic piece of metal pipe and have the BOV fitting welded on. Use the new metal pipe to replace the upper plastic IC pipe. http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/pics/enginebay120602.jpg Most of the other BOV companies have some way to recirculate...

FYI almost every aftermarket BOV can also function like a BPV and vent back into the intake if you desire. However BPV's cannot vent to atmosphere.

:) As for flow testing, it's great insurance. But IMO if you know for a fact that the mileage on them is low then chances are they are fine. If you aren't going to be pushing them to their limits it's something you could save some money on. If you're shooting for the 500+rwhp range...

Anytime you modify the AFM signal either via SAFC type device or MAFT you've modified where FCO is going to hit in relation to the actual amount of boost hitting the manifold (i.e. your boost gauge). If you remove any signal then you increase the boost at which FCO hits, or vice versa. Also...

You don't actually have to remove the restriction after installing the Walbro. I've been running a few years on the original j-tube and Walbro with no problems. You also don't need an AFPR over 12psi, it's a good idea but in no way required. I've been running 16-20psi every day for the past...

Technically you could run stock boost or right up to FCO on a 60 trim CT26 with no prob, however you'd be seriously wasting that turbo. In order to see the most from even a 57 trim CT26 you'll need bigger injectors and some sort of fuel control..

The super monitor can check engine codes, but that's a rare option. Just follow the link and use a piece of wire or paper clip in the T1 and E1 terminals .

30-40hp gain on what though? If you're trying to shove 30psi with a monster turbo through the stock manifold then yeah you'll definitely see improvement with a FFM. It just depends on what your bottleneck is.

BHG or anything that allows the exhaust gases to interact with antifreeze will turn the antifreeze into an acidic mixture. This is what causes the pitting. Switching to pure water can help if your climate allows for it.

Indeed. Japan has had these plates out for years. http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/pics/enginebay011204.jpg Saw this product many many years ago (talking 1997ish here). A direct copy would be the same thing in carbon fiber. Some people like CF, some people like aluminum. I say more power to...