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My boner requires more torque to aim at the stool in the morning than your supra makes in it's finest hour...:sarcasm: -crisp

Well... I know better than to double post... but here's my firing sequence since my latest endeavors were executed.;) http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m26/crispone/?action=view&current=R0019255.flv Dyno... DEFINITELY a likelyhood...

Unless things go very south between now and then... I'm in.;) (Car is running and pulls like a freight train in the mid... just gotta get it all dialed in within the coming days...) -crisp

Potentially, yes. (The stock bolts are PRIME candidates for over-torque or other joint failure cause, and in my opinion, much to blame for the BHG tendency of the 7M. ARP FTW!;) -crisp

in layman's terms... I'd not use the stock bolts under ANY circumstances. to add to my above, a STUD and NUT joint are FAR more linear in their pre-loading of the stud. Simple reason... you are introducing BOTH tension AND twist into a BOLT, and the lack of a hardened washer under the bolt...

bolt is like spring place spring in "tension" by PRE-LOADING proper pre-load is dictated by bolt tensile lubricants reduce friction coefficient at differing rates lower friction means bolt reaches proper pre-load under LESS applied torque value the "spring" under tension holds...

:biglaugh: -crisp

Bored of your typical Big Mac? Try THIS: crispmac Purchase Big Mac Request BBQ sauce with order (Some lame-o McD's CHARGE for this small favor@!$%) Disassemble Big Mac SCRAPE "SOME" of the "special sauce" and lettuce crap off with a fry... (find a STIFF, CRUNCHY one as the limp one's...

WELCOME! (If you open your glove-box when you shift into fifth gear... it's your bushing.;) NOTORIOUS "row-boat" shifters in these stock units! DOH! (NASH for ME!) -crisp

^^^ Thanks Jeff! (At the moment, I'm in my CAR on an 8 party international conference call with Japan, Canada, and the US... been doing these all WEEK late in the evening to "match" time zones! DOH!) ...needless to say, exhausted with work and the four kids... but I'm going at it agian...

Just ordered MY fresh rubber... ...don't know if ARZ Wilwood's will make it in time... but I may be sportin' those as well.;) (IF the car is running within the week...) -crisp

NICE!;) -crisp

Ditto for same reason, not that I recall the chat with HKS tech when I first put it in... and same deg. drop, but it's all relative.;) -crisp

Damn. You are making me want to have my '85 black back!!! That's really sweet!;) -crisp

I have had an HKS EGT for over ten years. It is installed in the elbow, where suggested in the instructions or by a tech at HKS. (Forget which, but I followed the recommendations.) The absolute temp reading is not NEARLY as important as the relative DELTA (temp shift/creep/change/stability...

This is true. Although not a fan of Goodyear Eagle GTs... I put a set off a wrecked corvette on an old coupe I had years ago... and they were about 60% tread. Paid $40 mounted. I'd GIVE you my "temp-tires" off mine... as I'm putting a set on before the meet if I get running in time. (BS...

Just let me know when you want to see the needle hit the pin with me sometime... I'll even let you take the pic next time, as I had some trouble with the focus on that run.;) PS: That run was back in '96 or so, IIRC... so I need a current pic anyway.:biglaugh: -crisp

^^^ Yup. I knew what you MEANT!;) I had a crack in the exhaust plenum once... so coolant would eventually evap out... but NO effect on performance! Kept evaporating more and more rapidly (likely crack grew...) and then I swapped heads. Fresh reman. did great until it dropped a valve seat...

...uphill...;) -crisp

I think you mean "increase" warm up time with coolant flowing... no?;) (Reduce temp. rise rate... or delay the heating process... or increase the time until up to temp., etc...) ...just actually read everything in the thread... and that struck me as inverted. -crisp