Search results

Yes, ECU was completely rebuilt with new caps a few years ago.

Has anyone used any of the non-OEM 1jz/2jz cam sensors like the ones on ebay and at the parts stores? All the aftermarket sensors seem to be made in China, probably all by the same factory. My cam sensors are leaking oil like mad and I think one of them might be starting to quit electronically...

I tried turning the idle screw down, but I'll try turning it up and see if it effects the cold idle the opposite way. I did check the TPS, it's in adjustment. I have another unresolved start-up issue with this car (it cranks like the engine is binding every few turns sometimes) and I went over...

I didn't rewire the IACV, but I did extend my harness. I'd think any errors would have thrown a code or caused hot idle issues though. I do run a SAFC to compensate for 440cc injectors. I wonder if the added timing is causing the cold idle to be a few hundred RPM higher than usual? This is a...

It never idled lower and climbed as it warmed. Always starts off high and slowly drops. It's been like that for four years roughly (daily driver except winter). I never thought about it being an IACV issue since the idle control is always spot on once it's warmed up. When I turn the lights on...

It never really bothered me till someone else pointed it out... but when I cold start my car the thing leaps right up to 2,000rpm and idles there till it warms up to closed loop mode (I know this cause I put a closed loop indicator light in the dash). Then it drops to a 750rpm idle, and idles...

The original JDM starter on my 1JZ MKIII died last fall and I rebuilt my old 7M starter and put it on (new solenoid contacts, checked the comm and brushes, cleaned and regreased gear drive) and even though the bendix and slide bushings are clean and have fresh light weight synthetic grease on...

I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to securely mount a full size battery in the hatch area, as low and forward as possible. Anyone have any pics of their setup? I'm just looking for ideas.

I got mine on ebay for $300. It was a rusty POS, but the internals were nice. Took some soaking and hammering to get the housing off to rotate it (you have to). I had an HX35W, but it was too big for my purposes so I swapped to the HY35W. Slightly smaller, spools earlier/faster, I think it...

I did this myself, I work at an automotive general repair shop. I wouldn't do it again though unless the OEM joint was seized or really falling apart. If I did it again I'd probably just get a complete woodward steering joint with a round weld-on side and toyota splines on the other side. I feel...

I have a really annoying clunk.... sounds like batteries shaking around in an aluminum flashlight. It seems to be in the dash above the radio somewhere. Happens on just about any bump I hit, but it doesn't happen every day... only every few days. Is there any common thing that rattles back...

Why not just buy a soarer JZZ30 harness? Wouldn't that be plug and play? They only sell for about $300 on ebay. If you offered a Supra 1JZ harness in trade here you might even get one free in trade since wiring a soarer harness into a Supra sucks (I know, I did it).

A .034" gap won't effect the car during a free rev. I ran that gap for a while and had no issues till I went above 10psi on the stock turbos, then I had to go down to .026" to run 17psi on my HY35W turbo. If you're breaking up during a free rev look elsewhere for problems. First off, check the...

You won't get a preformed hose for this engine swap at a local auto parts store. You'll have to just get them to show you the hose rack and let you pick one that will fit. Any decent parts store shouldn't have a problem doing this.

Carefully consider the cost if you plan a swap or an engine rebuild. A lot of people underestimate how much it costs for a basic swap, or they go for a swap and 700hp all at once and end up never finishing for years or giving up and parting out. Take whatever the price of the engine "swap" is...

Total turns lock to lock does not translate to how much steering travel the rack has. It just means the pinion in the rack is smaller if there are more turns. You'd need to actually measure the rack travel to know. What's more important though is the distance between the inner tie rod pivots...

There's a really simple solution to this.... get the marlin crawler electronic adapter that fits the trans to give the ECU a speed signal. Then buy an Autometer GPS speedometer and fit it into the stock cluster. They're pretty cool. Gearing and tire changes won't screw up your speed calibration...

The rubber flaps in the door jamb vents aren't really needed unless you park where you might get debris in them. There are water drains about 1/4" diameter directly below them in the pinch seam. Might want to pull the vents out though and take a close look down there with a flashlight to make...

Yeah I did this mod on my W58 and what I didn't like was that not only does it move the shifter down, but also forward, since the stock shifter leans back toward the driver in all the gears. So with the shorter stalk you have to reach forward a few more inches and it's awkward and uncomfortable...

I'm putting a bigger extinguisher in my car...