How bad would a 1j run on a .032-.034 Plug Gap?

[SupraSean]

Basically when i put the plugs in, still thinking in a 7m point of view I gapped the plugs to like .032 ish. No codes but car runs like crap, gauge indicates up to 4 psi before totally cutting out but nonetheless only runs decent at like -1/4 Throttle. Couldnt find a cracked coil. also if at idle and just wot free rev, it breaks up too much to rev past 5800 rpm.(Sputters backfires, sounds like and ignition problem, not like its going lean etc.) basic info is non vvti 1jz. stock fuel injectors, stock coils, AFPR (set to 35psi base), t61 with tubular manifold. Plugs are Bkr7e's.
Thanks guys and Gals.

 

[hvyman]

gap it down to around .028.

With that gap it will run fine but any good amount of throttle and it will start to break up.

Did you pull the boots off the coils?

 

[SupraSean]

Yeah when i get off work tonight im going to close the gap to around .026-.028. And yeah but ill check again when i regap the plugs. Yeah it seems like it runs fine until i try to go half throttle or more then it just kinda bogs and really falls on its face when i start getting into the + side of the pressure scale.

 

[emoFTW]

Definitely need a smaller gap.

 

[19cturbo]

the plugs i pulled out of my car were almost 40 on gap! car ran fine on the stock twins, but i had a slight stutter through the RPM range when i swapped to the holset. i put new plugs in and gaped them at .028 and havent had an issue since..

 

[Radial]

The question is very difficult to answer.

Spark performance (and sparkplug-gap needed) is determined by the condition of the wiring (incl good grounds and a good 12v feed), and the age of the coils&Igniter.
Spark performance can by other words be awsome on one car, and the next one could be almost dead.

Hence why most OEM manufacturers has converted to COP/CNP design with built in Igniters.... to rule out many of the issues related to a separate Igniter-setup.

 

[destrux]

A .034" gap won't effect the car during a free rev. I ran that gap for a while and had no issues till I went above 10psi on the stock turbos, then I had to go down to .026" to run 17psi on my HY35W turbo. If you're breaking up during a free rev look elsewhere for problems. First off, check the ECU for leaking capacitors. Then look for wiring harness issues, especially with the wiring and plugs that go to the coils. Look at the cam timing/timing belt for slack or problems. Check the cam sensors for damage or problems.

That's assuming you ruled out fuel system problems already like a bad fuel pump/clogged fuel filter/clogged injectors/bad FPR/map sensor problems.