What are the ONLY necessary parts to make the 7m run and be driveable?

[Nghty89]

Out of all that I have learned, I do not know exactly which systems are necessary and which aren't. Obviously, they all serve a purpose, but for now I need this car driveable at least until next friday afternoon when I can add whatever things I am missing.

BTW: 87 7mgte in an 87 n/a chassis. yes I have everything needed, minus random vacuum systems and things here and there.

- I have the EGR system.
- I have all necessary sensors:
*afm
*oil psi
*water temp (gauge and ecu)
*cps

So what else is needed to make this thing run reliable enough for a clean break-in and DD to and from work? I at least need it to run monday until I get home. So 30 minutes there and 30 minutes back lol I am desperate since I have no other vehicle, I have to give the current one back.

I know I am missing information, so I am looking to fill this gap. I have read over the TSRM and still have only a faint clue as to what exactly is needed. (Like I said, I know the vacuum system are crucial, I just don't know enough about them.) Thanks in advance for any and all information!

 

[Nghty89]

No answers? lol

 

[Another MkIII]

Out of all that I have learned, I do not know exactly which systems are necessary and which aren't. Obviously, they all serve a purpose, but for now I need this car driveable at least until next friday afternoon when I can add whatever things I am missing.

BTW: 87 7mgte in an 87 n/a chassis. yes I have everything needed, minus random vacuum systems and things here and there.

- I have the EGR system.
- I have all necessary sensors:
*afm
*oil psi
*water temp (gauge and ecu)
*cps

So what else is needed to make this thing run reliable enough for a clean break-in and DD to and from work? I at least need it to run monday until I get home. So 30 minutes there and 30 minutes back lol I am desperate since I have no other vehicle, I have to give the current one back.

I know I am missing information, so I am looking to fill this gap. I have read over the TSRM and still have only a faint clue as to what exactly is needed. (Like I said, I know the vacuum system are crucial, I just don't know enough about them.) Thanks in advance for any and all information!

Well, due to the vagueness of this question, I have no other choice. You need:
EVERYTHING!
Hope that helps.
On a more serious note, what do you have left to put on?
-AM3

 

[Nghty89]

Well, due to the vagueness of this question, I have no other choice. You need:
EVERYTHING!
Hope that helps.
On a more serious note, what do you have left to put on?
-AM3

This is the reason I put in my post that I understand that everything is necessary, but due to the circumstances I have NO CHOICE but to forgo some of these systems due to parts/time unavailability.

I DO NOT want to hear 'everything'. That is not a helpful answer. Thank you for trying though. I appreciate the sarcasm/irony, it does help my mood a little.

So far I am planning on running the stock fuel regulator off of the manifold in order to keep fuel pressure correct. I will be running with the cps, afm, coolant sensors, oil psi sensor, and stock bypass valve. I will have the egr bolted up, but I am unable to electronically control it without the 25860 VSV connector. I am leaving the EGR bolted in, but not hooked up for now. It appears all other systems can be successfully left off for a few days until I can grab the rest and bolt it all together.

This post helped immensely:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86753&highlight=7mgte+vacuum+lines

The final pieces left are to get the broken heater union bolt out of the head, put in the new one, and put the motor in the car and start it. That is all. Minus minor IC routing and wiring which I do not consider a large obstacle.

 

[FullNelson]

Just put everything back to STOCK. Its as easy as putting the motor back inand connecting everything on the harness and all vacuum lines. To hook your EGR up now isnt but a 5 minute job, and will rule it out the possibility of an error later.

 

[Nghty89]

.......Wait.... you just gave me an idea..... I can get all the stock vacuum things from the guy who's holding the old 7mge motor that I still own since the spare 7mge in my garage has nothing on it... This is why I interact with people, it helps me think. Thank you! Although, I have to say - There is nothing stock in the engine bay except the basic PS lines and AC lines. The CC is gone. The wiring harness has been pulled to be swapped for a gte one. So it's not THAT simple. Especially when I have random things missing and no complete idea of what goes where. It's hard to place the diagrams in the TSRM sometimes.

Anyways, the head has to come off so the broken heater union bolt can be taken out by the shop.

 

[Another MkIII]

OK, now I can actually help now that there are some details. Basically, you should be able to run like this, but I wouldn't drive it hard at all, and I wouldn't drive it like this for long. EGR is very important on these cars, anyone that says its not, can take a look at the hole that was in the side of my block when i got the car. You don't need to run with the PS idle up switch connected, I ran without it for a week, before I realized it was hooked up wrong. Charcoal canister should be hooked up, otherwise fuel vapors just vent to the atmosphere. Gas fumes are a very easy way to make fires or booms. Knock sensors should be put in place, these are even more important if you don't have EGR. I'm sure there are probably other things, but I can't think of them at the moment.
-AM3

 

[Nghty89]

Thanks everyone for all the help. I have the motor in, and I am wiring it up. I found the vsv for the egr, but it looks like my fpr will be running directly off of vacuum.

Important question - What does the oil psi sensor wire look like? Is it yellow with a black stripe and terminates with an open wire, or is there a clip??

 

[mkIIIman089]

Clip and a giant boot that covers the entire sensor "bulb".

Knock sensors arent a "should", they are a must, without them it will run in a reduced performance mode and show an error code.

If you think a lack of EGR caused you to pop a chunk of the block out, you are seriously misinformed. *Maybe* over time it could damage the head gasket from detonation... even then the knock sensors are very sensitive and will pick up just about any abnormal combustion before anything gets hurt.

To be blunt, this is exactly the type of thing that has you "going 1J" in a month because you think the 7M is a POS as a result of your ignorant half-assing. Unless you really understand the TCCS's operating procedures, leaving anything off is going to get you in trouble, "everything" is more of a reality than you may 1st think.

 

[IJ.]

 

[Nghty89]

No worries IJ, I have all of the vacuum lines, egr system, fpr system, and proper sensors/wires hooked up. I worked a bit overtime to find the things I was missing and it paid off! :biglaugh:

Now I do have everything. I was fortunate enough to have a friend willing to cart me around this past week until I found what I needed.

 

[IJ.]

No worries IJ, I have all of the vacuum lines, egr system, fpr system, and proper sensors/wires hooked up. I worked a bit overtime to find the things I was missing and it paid off! :biglaugh:

Now I do have everything. I was fortunate enough to have a friend willing to cart me around this past week until I found what I needed.

Well done you may use the fully assed tray

 

[Nghty89]

Why thank you! :naughty:


I keep running into random small problems though... :nono: I think my present to myself this Xmas is a running Supra. :love:

 

[Warpath]

Lol.

This pic has been very popular with you......& for good reason.

 

[IJ.]

The difference being Nght is now smart enough to listen and learn and make sensible informed decisions

 

[Nghty89]

Hehe, I wasn't always... I should have listened on my first build with the 2jz. Instead of going all out $5k deep, I should have done a simple rebuild on my old 7m. But this go around I was able to start over with minimal cost and more knowledge... and I listened to those trying to tell me things lol

Currently working on getting the clutch lines to go properly. Still finding that damn fuel leak. I have a feeling it's injector 1 at the front of the motor. I'm glad I tested the system before fully assembling everything.

 

[IJ.]

Fixed my post

 

[Nghty89]

Thank you, IJ. lol


So question.... I do not have my soft line from the first r154. I have the soft line for the w58. I am running the r154 in this car. Will the soft line bolt directly into the slave cylinder, or do I need to buy the $32 soft line for the r154 from the dealer? They are different part numbers, one being female on both ends (r154), the other being female and male (w58). The threads are all the same between the soft lines and hard lines, so I assume it should bolt in. I have not had a chance to try it, but I figured I'd ask.

 

[mkIIIman089]

If everything else is stock... it probably will not.

 

[IJ.]

I'd upgrade to a braided stainless line at this point.