High quality 160* thermostat?

[mkIIIman089]

Not sure what the point of changing it for winter is, unless your running at 90C even with a [strike]70C[/strike] 77C thermostat in when ambient is higher than 30F (or whatever "winter" is)... in which case - why? (77C isn't 160F BTW )

Unnamed brands/rebrands no one has ever heard of from a parts store is asking for trouble IMO. At least with Stant you know who made the thing: a company who, I'm confident, makes a half decent product. I also think "performance thermostat" is a gross misrepresentation of what a carquest 160* thermostat is... JMNSHO

 

[gofastgeorge]

Napa THM 42 is a Stant 13366. On the NAPA premium stats they even go as far as to say they are "Superstat" type LOL.

gofastgeorge, you drilling a small hole to at least get them 1/2 way to a jiggle valve? I probably will, just curious.

It has a small bleed hole (actually a crease in the metal) in it.
Not as large as I would like though.
The EMP/Stewart is the same style as the Napa 42, and has several large holes in it,
if you go to Summit's site, you can see them.

Now why would that be cheezy? GM (just like ford) has so many parts that it is not even comparable to the import market. A bit of machining to make it work, that is ok!

Sorry IJ, I just have alternate names for the 'Big Three'.
Cheesy Chevy, Fraud Ford, and Dodge Dog...............
Any of them built up would most likely kick my ass,
but I still like to talk smack about them to possible street race victims :naughty:

 

[mkIIIman089]

Oh okay, not having one in my hand I didn't know... couldn't see in any image, but it makes sense for it to have some sort of bypass to improve accuracy.

That was figgie, not IJ.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Not sure what the point of changing it for winter is, unless your running at 90C even with a [strike]70C[/strike] 77C thermostat in when ambient is higher than 30F (or whatever "winter" is)... in which case - why? (77C isn't 160F BTW )

Unnamed brands/rebrands no one has ever heard of from a parts store is asking for trouble IMO. At least with Stant you know who made the thing: a company who, I'm confident, makes a half decent product. I also think "performance thermostat" is a gross misrepresentation of what a carquest 160* thermostat is... JMNSHO

I change for winter as the factory rated thermostat opens later letting my car warm up quicker, simple really. It cuts down the amount of time i spend in the shed warming it up.
Just because Stant is a known brand doesn't mean they always work, i had many returned to me that wouldn't open when i managed a parts store so they all need to be checked in boiling water first before installing.

 

[gofastgeorge]

Oh okay, not having one in my hand I didn't know... couldn't see in any image, but it makes sense for it to have some sort of bypass to improve accuracy.

That was figgie, not IJ.

Me bad !
Seen the thing about chevy, and thought of IJ's project............

 

[IJ.]

Colder T-Stat in Winter = less heater and more brrrr

 

[mkIIIman089]

Any thermostat should be checked in water before installation anyway.

If anything the higher temp thermostat would make warm up longer... since you need another 30* to be "warm". Unless like I asked and Ian brought up, the 160 is doing nothing but prolonging your way to and equilibrium temp of ~88c.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Here's the part no. for the recommended high flow thermostat from Tridon, i had very few of this brand come back for replacements.
TT2040-180
http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=479&P=104057

 

[mkIIIman089]

^Until I just saw that diagram I had assumed "offset" was the element being skewed to the spring side. Thats the 1st "offset" one I have see where the mechanical bit is actually offset in the flange.

OEM is not offset, not sure if that is an issue for that PN, just figured I'd bring it up.

 

[Poodles]

Any thermostat should be checked in water before installation anyway.

If anything the higher temp thermostat would make warm up longer... since you need another 30* to be "warm". Unless like I asked and Ian brought up, the 160 is doing nothing but prolonging your way to and equilibrium temp of ~88c.

How do you figure? Higher temp means it stays closed longer. T-stat controls flow to the radiator, not the heater core.

 

[mkIIIman089]

If the goal is hotter heat, then OK. When I read, I assumed he was speaking of engine temp and not cabin temp... considering nothing in this thread had anything to do with cabin temp until [potentially] that post.

 

[3p141592654]

It's hard to find published data on BSFC versus coolant temp. The effects do not seem to be very large. Here is a plot of BSFC for three different coolant temps for a turbo Wankel. The paper is SAE 820354 from NASA Lewis.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Interesting how the tested temps criss cross/align dependent on RPM...

 

[grimreaper]

what are you using to tell the ecu to stop warm up enrichment?

 

[mkIIIman089]

Black magic and voodoo, with a dash of witchcraft.

(It's so easy, any monkey who can read english can figure it out without too much trouble)

 

[mkIIIman089]

Put in the Stant 13366 in today. As I expected it's motor/valve assembly are a smaller diameter than the OEM one, so I modified it with several additional holes to achieve equal opening area to that of the Toyota one. Yes, that will effect it's warm up time slightly, but I don't anticipate it being enough of a difference to be problematic in any way.

Other than that it popped right in with a Toyota gasket. Testing it's functionality tomorrow some time.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Black magic and voodoo, with a dash of witchcraft.

(It's so easy, any monkey who can read english can figure it out without too much trouble)

If your referring to my comment my afrs reach there normal target almost as early in summer with the high flow as the stocko.My ecu is a turbo-a so maybe its setup is a little different to a standard ecu.I have checked the vf and its right in the middle, No need for the above criticism, you just make yourself look like a tool..

 

[mkIIIman089]

I have no idea what you're on about... your last post was about that brand you were recommending.

I was referring to grimreaper... who is a sort of mythical supernatural character, hence the magic references. The post directly above the one you quoted. Talk about looking like a tool...

I also think your diagnosis of in a non-enrichment mode may be incorrect. It's only easily apparent on a wideband at VERY low water temp. (say <15-20C - oil pressure may also be involved during this [open loop] state), and VF is variation on it's base map. It doesn't stay at 0 or ~1v on warm up unless it needs to in order to correct some inaccuracy in the base map for the conditions the primary sensors are reporting... as it would in any state except open loop. The minor warm up enrichment that goes on after the initial starting phase is much less noticeable from what I've seen.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

That's cool, not looking for trouble.! I love my motor so if there is any dramas that may be caused by my apparent ignorance than i'll definately change my ways,
i only went for a cooler thermostat to help out on the hot summer days when my thongs were melting just walking on the bitumen. My ecu made noticeable changes for the first 5 mins roughly (just like stock) then after that all seemed to stay the same. If there are small changes still happening with the ecu are there any methods for testing to see what changes are taking place?

 

[mkIIIman089]

SO, until now I had always cited jdub's info of <176 being in a warm up mode, but after looking up the manual pertaining to our generation of TCCS that number may be slightly high.

The manual for our antiquated EFI system indicates that <158F it is in warm up enrichment. In addition to that it had a graph that goes from "1.0" correction at 158F and increases injection linearly (x) amount each degree below 158. Like I said... vague.

So while you're using a 160 thermostat, assuming the system has the capacity to keep it riding the thermostat... it's "iffy" and probably bounces between enrichment and not. Of course if the 160 is only slowing your way to an equilibrium temp of 170 or 180 or something then it's certainly not damaging - but you'd be better off with a thermostat that is closer to the system's equilibrium temp.

I'll keep poking though, see if I can spot that 176 number jdub cites... as I doubt he just made it up from nowhere. [EDIT] Looks like a range of 50-80C is listed in the ODBII manual, 80C=176F.
ODBI:

ODBII: