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yea i could do that but i would like to find some silicon block-off caps. the rubber ones seem leak too much. -t3d

that's pretty much was i plan on doing but i'm just gonna replace it with a new one rather than fixing mine and have it leak again somewhere else. i only want to do this once that's for sure, but i want to do it right and then not look back =0) -t3d

well, what i'm thinkin on doing is replacing with a new toyota pipe and weld/braze off the little pipe that goes around to the intake side. it's gonna be a pain in the ass mostly because i don't want to remove my manifolds and shit. but i would rather do it right than jbweld it. plus it gives...

i mean is that really a good fix? getting a new pipe from toyota would run me around 160 bucks...ouch! -t3d

was the definition and full history of the word really necessary? lol -t3d

i just noticed i have the same problem and it's pissing me off. i have alot of accessories under the hood too. it's fully built with not even 3000 miles on it and i notice this shit. it's my daily and don't really have time to pull the motor out again, so i'm also looking for the easiest way...

That's what I did. The stalling and going lean thing is what's driving me crazy. The Afr's go off the charts lean and it stalls. I'm thinkin about smoke testing at work but I don't get much time. The only code that keeps coming back is the 51

this isn't easy. everytime i adjust it, it will be in spec on the first check, infinity at the .9mm check, but also infinity at the .5mm check. very frustrating!

idk if this helps but when it's about to stall, it runs full lean. i don't drive it like that, just when it's about to stall. normal driving is perfect AFR's

i guess i'll do that then...thanks for the input. i'll let you know what i come up with -t3d

i couldn't find anything on adjusting the tps. this is all i found.

alright to start off...i did this check because the car stalls sometimes at idle. the rpms will drop really low and either stall or get back to normal. the two codes are 42 and 51. if you have seen my other posts, i have a recirculated bov, a working ISC now, and no vacuum leaks. normal idle...

well, yea i figured that out when i adjusted it. it was just snapping closed and not even hitting the dashpot.

well, like i said i only adjusted it cause it would stall out sometimes if i pushed in the clutch at a high rpm for it drop back to idle. the idle would drop really low and stall or sometimes it would stay low and then jump back up

well, i checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. i adjusted the dashpot alittle. i also adjusted the idle screw. i unplugged the ISC connector and took it for a test drive and the idle didn't jump up when i shifted. so, i plugged the connector back in, went to start it up and it wouldn't...

alright it's not the throttle linkage. i'm running straight cable and i tried lifting on the pedal while the idle was high and it did nothing. my idle screw is in there. i actually raised the idle alittle because sometimes at high rpm decelleration, if i push in the clutch real quick, the...