dude..... covering a rust hole with bondo only works for a little bit... why cover it up when you can take care of the problem before it ruins more and increases costs. nip it in the ass while you're ahead instead of back pedaling and spending more money.
google it. all answers are on the internet. not trying to be a dick, but...... go to google, type in "1jz engine codes" and go to first link, click, go to second or third post, click, scroll. it's that easy. took me less than two minutes.
okay, so i've had this problem since a few months after doing my swap and from what i've found out is that it has to do with the wires going from the ignition to the starter having too much resistance. the part number should be on the starter but if you do enough research on this site i'm sure...
dude.. i have the same problem... you know what mine was.... my cam lobes on cylinder 2-6 were worn so bad that it had no compression. The first cylinder had plenty of compression. but two thru six had absolutely none. I would say do a compression check, and determine if you have any cylinders...
i'll be back in town friday evening. probably going out and gettin shit faced but i'll be down to hang out saturday day or night there are a few different meets to hit up saturday night if you want. or just cruise around.
YEAR: 1989
ASPIRATION: twin turbo 1jz
ROOFLINE: targa
TRANSMISSION: r154
EXTERIOR COLOR: dark blue and primer(haha)
INTERIOR COLOR: blue cloth with black dash
LOCATION: tampa
harness??? that's easy! you just cut a wire at a time and solder it together with a long ass wire and cover it back up. that's easy. look the thing that you need to look into is mileage on the engine, does it run currently and they are willing to start it to do a compression test and video tape...
you have a vacuum leak somewhere. that's a typical cause of a vacuum leak. start the car, let it run, and listen under the hood for and type of air leak, probably around the intake manifold near the vacuum lines. if it's not there check ALL your intercooler piping faseteners, but it should be...
hey dude get on ohiosupras.org and look up a guy named shane. he's out of dayton and he's a whiz with supras. he has helped me tremendously with my swap and i can say that he can probably help you out as well. i too am from cincinnati and i have since moved to tampa but that forum page is really...
piston rings could be leaking. you need to do a compression test and also a valve leak down test, even if the head had been reworked as you say. also check the valves themselves to see if it's just carbon build up that is letting oil into the cylinders or if it's the seals. hope this helps.
okay, so here is what i am up against. i obviously have a stinger... on a 1jz. it starts great in the morning and above 160 and below 120 coolant temp. but not inbetween. i tried messing with the fuel comp. but i'm not sure that it actually worked since the engine had cooled off.
i got solid aluminum mounts from a place out on the north west coast somewhere and they work great. he also sells a solid trans mount that takes a little modification to get to fit correctly. but i got the whole set for around 200 bucks.
that stock base map is crap. my car ran all fucked up on that map. i had my tuner just do his own thing from scratch. i would check you spark plugs and see if they're fouled. and if so change them out and see if that helps. then check and see how rich the car is running. also what plugs are you...
i know this is an old post and such but i have recently purchased an aem and am trying to figure out how to wire it up to the stinger. if anyone can help with that it would be nice. thanks.
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