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Just get a good set of drag radials for the rear and you will get all the rake you need and want. I have seen Mustangs with a 19 in front and a 20 in rear (I know that isn't the sizes you are going to be running but just as an example) and I didn't think that it looked too terrible. His coil...

Lincoln mesh wheels look pretty awesome on our cars... I will try and find a picture of my friend's car with them on. Also Infiniti fat five spoke '01 Q45 17s look damn good.

I have a friend with an upgraded A340E... The guy he bought it from had a shift kit and upgraded clutch packs put in. I will PM you.

I like the way your tires look with the 205s... only problem is you only have 205mm of tire on the road... I would almost suggest looking into getting the wheels machined so they sit in more and you can get a wider tire on there... Just my preference though... Not trying to impose on your look...

The new kit replaces that bushing. They are a complete bitch to replace and not for the beginner or not so skilled novice. My adjusment bolts were all seized and it wound up taking me almost 12 hours to get this job completed, aligned, and driving on the road. And I have been doing this for...

I mean I would still try pounding on the blower motor before I replaced anything.. I have seen some crazy stuff in my days of working on cars (which are many and very, very long) and sometimes you can have a draw of voltage by a seized blower motor and sometimes the pounding on the motor while...

Does it do it only at high speed, low speed? Have you tried banging on the motor to see if it would start back up again? It sounds barbaric, but if you try and hit the motor with the side of you fist and it comes back on you know that it is the motor itself. If it does not it may be a blower...

If the toe is adjusted to compensate the additional camber setting you shouldn't need to worry about tire wear, and you will appreciate the more negative camber while driving. But that also depends on the skills of your alignment tech. One other piece of advice. While you have the bushings out...

I would have the alignment checked, if the toe and camber settings are good then I would move on to the struts... Toe is mainly a feathering as stated previously, but with the combination of a few of these issues present I have seen cupping be a factor. It could also be the tires themselves. Do...

I would grab a valve from someone on here and just run a stock headgasket. If you feel the need to run a thicker one I would contact Cometic as I know that they may be able to give you advice in regards to the thickness of the headgasket you need to run/ should run. Head studs are always the way...

Wish I would have come across this post sooner... Just now listened to the noise, then read the posts... You need to change that ball joint. Don't let it go just because a tech put grease on it. That is a tell-tale sign of a [ball] joint being severely worn out. If lower ball joint, less...

It only takes one! I would suggest getting them all done since it is out and being fixed. Also, with the starter it might not be a bad idea to install an additional relay inline with the signal wire. Sometimes the clicking of the started can be the resistance in the wire itself.

Not a problem. Where in Florida are you? If you are close to the tampa area I could help you out with that alignment. I also roll fenders, set ride height, and have a full shop of tools and such. In fact, we will be working on supras Monday night if you are close by

Looks damn good! I would like to add some suggestions. First, rear camber should be around -1.5 and depending on the use of the vehicle the toe should be (for race) around +.03, (for street driving) around +.13. Front camber looks great around -1.0 and front toe depending on the use of vehicle...

So take the people's advice! Changing spark plugs isn't going to do anything unless your sensors are working properly. Have you checked codes in the car? If not, start there and do your research on your codes. This is why technicians get paid the money that we do, because we know how to start...

In case you need a third person to say the same thing ...... I would do as these guys say, but make sure that you apply FIPG to the whole area surrounding the half moon at the back of the valve cover.. That means taking it out, cleaning both surfaces, applying FIPG, reinstalling the half moon...

Yeah, you are talking about a DELSOL that is probably close to a thousand pounds lighter than a Supra. When you say that you have 'experience' cutting coils and follow it up by passing blame onto your friend for getting greedy with cutting the springs it doesn't seem to me that you did anything...

In all my years I have never overtorqued a tie rod end or ball joint nut. A lot of times the aftermarket ones are a little bit longer, plus the castle nuts are a little bit shorter. I have gone and tightened them down with impacts and never had any issues on probably close to a thousand...

Okay... Ready? GO! I am an auto technician that specializes in suspension, steering, and alignments. First thing is first THERE IS NO REAR CASTER ADJUSTMENT! Second, when you lower a car you are going to have issues with not being able to get the car "within spec" without the use of aftermarket...

Might be something with the fuel pump in your case. Maybe it became detatched from the bracket and maybe floating upside down or something... I have seen this on customers cars in my shop, not necessarily Supras, but it could be a possibility