Getting Alignment within OEM Spec

[blk92suprat]

Little backround, I am currently runing coilovers on stock size wheels and tires. I have 17x9 +35 and 17x10 +20 wheels on the way and they will be mated with 255x40 and 275x40 tires. I will also order the poly bushings kit for front and rear along with new OEM front lower ball joints.


Right to my question, what do I need?
What are the benefits of the Beech or Battle Version rear links (camber,toe and traction) and the Beech front upper control arm?
Are these what I need or can I get away with new OEM front and rear camber bolts,nuts and washers since I'm not sure if the original are seized or not.

Car will not be crazy low due to my wheel/tire sizes choosen.

Thanks for any input in advance.

 

[IJ.]

Stock hardware has enough adjustment to cover less than 2" drop in the rear, once past that the transverse arms need to be 15mm shorter to get you back in range.
(long lower arm that runs across the back of the car)

 

[blk92suprat]

Good to know.

Is the purpose for these aftermarket rear links only for vehicles lowered beyond 2 inches?
In regardes to the Beech front upper control arm, can this only be adjusted for additional negative camber beyond OEM?

 

[IJ.]

Their "purpose" is to make money

NOT a big fan of heim joints on a road car, a suspension failure on a Mk3 can lead to catastrophe (check my profile page for evidence of this)

I would assume the Beech A Arm does what you've described, might be useful for track days+sticky rubber.

 

[blk92suprat]

Thanks for the quick replys!

 

[IJ.]

No probs, Sunday morning here just vegging at the PC

 

[LordDigital]

Their "purpose" is to make money

NOT a big fan of heim joints on a road car, a suspension failure on a Mk3 can lead to catastrophe (check my profile page for evidence of this)

I would assume the Beech A Arm does what you've described, might be useful for track days+sticky rubber.

Catastrophe(s) are part of the modification game I found that HeimJoints on the MK3 suspension setup are not as bad as many other cars not only because on the hub end most of the arms connect with GrandTouring spec OEM bushings ,but also because there is a second layer of bushings between the subFrame and the chassis.

The big gain of fully adjustable arms in the rear is increasing the track the right way - in my car I gained up to 20mm before my camber gets way too aggressive

 

[kanji1jz]

If the toe is adjusted to compensate the additional camber setting you shouldn't need to worry about tire wear, and you will appreciate the more negative camber while driving. But that also depends on the skills of your alignment tech. One other piece of advice. While you have the bushings out and before you install the new bushings have someone weld the camber/ toe adjusting tabs so that they don't bend and you can get a true adjustment without a component failure (i.e. the tabs bending and the amount of adjustment not being able to be had). Take it from me who has done this time and time again, and also has done plenty of alignments on Toyotas/ Lexus' that have had issues with adjustment because of this. Good luck and feel free to ask any other questions you may have.