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I know how that can be. I strongly suggest the algebrator. It saved me boatloads of time while completing the ME degree. Short of calc and above it will handle everything you throw at it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Seems oil ran low and seized the turbo (surprisingly engine ok) anyone have and able to ship tomorrow? 57 trim or better is preferred. Pm or post and I'll provide a phone #. *disclaimer* yes this should be in WTB but I ask it remain until Friday evening at least due to high traffic area and...

Thanks 3p, surprised I didn't see that a long time ago.

Now that you've looked through the code, would you have any idea what would cause relatively severe power loss under normal engine conditions and yet worsens with heat? My suspicion has always been timing related. The power I feel during a warm engine (needle about 1/4 way up) and hot (needle up...

no one has input here?

Some of you know for a long time I've had mysterious power loss at op temps. While I had suspicions of my knock sensors, I never really thought to just monitor the knock reading on SAFC. I have been monitoring the output now for several weeks and this is what I've noticed. Please let me know a...

History of this error suggests the wires are bad and/or loose at the connector. Jiggle them a bit and see what happens, the results may add a smile to your face. Start cheap and work your way up...

Was thinking the same thing. I'm going with a safe bet and saying he meant after-fire. On another note, YOU CANNOT PROPERLY TIME WITHOUT PUTTING THE CAR IN DIAGNOSTIC MODE. Jump terminals E1 and TE1 (? someone correct me if I'm wrong, I just know it visually at this point) It will be impossible...

If you have easy access to a buddy's extra ECU, see what happens. A long shot but easy to check, I had a very similar problem, was a poor grounding issue; the car acts possessed and nonresponsive when the grounds are just on the cusp of not working at all and poor but usable.

valve seals going. mine does this as well sometimes,

I have had the same type of knock for years, never did figure it out and i've pulled the engine several times and torn it down to the block (for other reasons, blown front plate seal...terrible to do)

Seems like a CXracing alternative. GL. I'm curious if it works effectively, after proper installation of course.

What ajay said. Its a downgrade. I seriously doubt you could even get a measurable power difference have a clutch fan versus not. The down side to efans is purely the fact that they cannot flow nearly as much as a stock clutch fan.

Its been out some time. Failed immediately in my book as I'm now shroud-less. I made a thread on this awhile back. I made Pat aware of the issue, he has avoided me since I requested them to replace my shroud or at least provide me another cooling option...

No, worse. 60-1 in a CT-26 housing is destined to fail quickly.

As an employee of an LED fixture manufacturer, I can tell you the LED intensity/lumen output is completely up to the manufacturer. Don't blame the LED's for their efficiency and the manufacturer who doesn't know how to design a fixture with comparable output to what's already on the road. I do...

Out of curiosity, what is it about the synchros that limit the shift speed?

I've seen those around quite a bit. I'm very surprised to hear its sturdy! Seems like with such a long flex arm plus a suction cup it would vibrate a lot Any idea what kind of mount they use and where? suction cup, sticky pad, screw, no drill mount etc?

Looking for an in car iphone mount. Having a difficult time finding a good one. The biggest things I'm looking for is for it not to shake at all or very minimally so I can use it with the dynolicious app; its actually a fun app. Found this RAM mount...

lol at Indigo. Unsure, something Ill have to check. One thing I did notice if after longer term driving (ie over an hour) my TPS actually begins to malfunction in the sense about 10% normal throttle becomes 0% according to SAFC. One more thing to look into. Im curious what kind of temp levels...