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Sold the Supra, other forums, real life, etc... Facebook groups have their positives, but definitely their negatives. No real way to search for info like the forums so you end up having the same question over and over.

Hey, getting chased by what I'm currently driving :) Still miss boost... That straight shows what I mean :rofl:

For future reference: http://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-36SOL-Solenoid-Repair/dp/B0031HL09E/

8000K puts out less light than a normal halogen. If you're aiming the headlights down to stop from blinding people, you can't see down the road better either. If you want the blue look, get some silverstars.

Yarp, it's a Supra. Sadly it appears they never covered the car in their reviews...

Emergency flasher switch plugged in? If it's not (or it's burnt out) the flashers and turn signals won't work.

They're first gen airbags anyway. Ask anyone that's been hit by them if they think they helped (hint: they HURT far worse than if they weren't there as they're meant to be primary restraints instead of secondary).

Tein makes several different levels and they can be custom valved if needed to ride however you want.

Spacers effectively hard mount the subframe to the body. Bushes will just stiffen it up without hard mounting which could transfer noise and vibration into the body.

Seems to be that the diff comes loose and then causes extra stress on the subframe causing the cracks. Considering I've seen it on stock cars and not seen it on heavily modified cars as well.

It's not in the same ballpark as upgrading the headgasket at all. The better correlation would be to have the old blown head gasket motor act as the starter for the new engine you somehow stuffed in the engine bay. That sounds really stupid, right? Now you know what this "fix" sounds like to...

Does it simply click, or do you get nothing? If it's clicking and still not starting, it's possibly the contacts (later style contacts are longer and don't wear as fast). If it's not clicking at all, it could be the plunger was installed dry and it's sticking, or the relay/wiring is bad...

ftfy On the subject of the starter, 99% of the time it's the contacts in the starter and not the solenoid windings or motor. The rebuild parts are VERY cheap for this failure and it's extremely easy to do. Failure isn't going to be heat related as it's on the wrong side of the motor for that...

It's not about balance, it's about frequencies and dampening them. Only one I know of that's lighter than stock and still will protect your engine is from ATI.

No resonator = D R O N E Not going to get rasp out of a turbo engine as the turbo muffles that. IMHO you're crazy. If you want louder get a DDP or something so when you're cruising it's not droning you to the point of wanting to /wrists

No real reason to restrict oil to the head as it has many large pathways back down, so the oil isn't sticking around up there. I've never heard of any of the big power guys doing it...

No, only select areas.

If the fans are on, the temp switch kicked on and it think it's overheating. Stock gauge has a terrible dead spot, but it could also just be a bad sensor (there's a ton of temp sensors, and if it's sluggish and the fans are on, I'd bet on the gauge sensor being bad and not telling you that...

Want to know how to fix that little issue? Apply the brakes lightly ;) McLaren F1 ran a Torsen, just sayin'

I often joked I would get a license plate that said "NVR DUN" Girlfriends always got mad about that one :rofl: