Oh okay. I thought you were talking about running an alternator disconnect so you could electrically remove it to save a couple hp for racing. It didn't make any sense in my head. Sorry, my mistake!
I dunno Shawn, I would almost run with the alternator during drag racing. The difference between pump output at 13.5v vs 12v is significant. The couple horsepower you may lose powering an alternator will give you that extra headroom you might need running larger injectors and pump.
Edit...
Damn. That is exactly what happened with me. The coppers were great for a bit over 1000 miles then they started missing. I am going to switch to the iridiums and see if that helps. What gap are you running?
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Sorry IJ, i should have been more specific. 4ms is max dwell. Tunerstudio calculates the table based on the max dwell it can run vs rpm. I never got into voltage compensation for mine, but I wasn't really trying to squeeze a lot out of the motor. As far as where I got my info about the coils...
Those coils you got are some of the best you could get. They have the external heatsink. I believe you need to set your dwell to 4.0ms. If you go too high, the coil will automatically spark, which means you would have a dangerous over advanced spark.
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Why not just use the cable you already have and just put this sleeving over it? As long as you ground the sleeve, it would be a good shield against noise. You could run it over the cam, crank, knock, and tps sensor wires and that would really make a huge difference to lower the noise. Just a...
Shield it. It came from the factory shielded. Also, the VR conditioner circuit is a crude design so you need to give it as low of a noise floor as you can.
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