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Yeah I suppose I'll do that. I may or may not fire it up on this oil. I def do want to make sure the motor is actually capable of running before I waste too much time on it. Whether or not I Try to start it on this next batch of oil, it certainly won't be driving around, let alone idling for...

I think I found the culprit. The shaker scoop has a gap in the weather seal right above the distributor hole. Plus, it has a built-in drain hole at the front of the base which drains right on top of the manifold. Since the motor is pitched rearward, all the rainwater must be running right into...

Ok gotcha. So as long as there's alky inside, the motor is NOT to be turned. Not untill it's been flushed with oil again. Now, idk if my rods are rifle drilled or not so idk if they will be flushed with alky if the oil ports aren't moving. But it may not matter tho.

I had wondered about some alcohol but didn't pursue it due to the idea that it might attack some of the materials inside the motor. Some of the seals are rubber and idk how the babbit will react to the alky. If my internals shan't be harmed, then perhaps I'll cycle that thru after this course of...

Well it's not priceless by any means. The motor has good parts in it like the custom came and valvtrain mods. But there's nothin special about the short block. I can always do an lq4 swap. I just wanted to attempt reassembling it cuz it's been an unfinished project for a decade now. I did...

So, this isn't about a supra but oil isnt supra specific. It's about my 79 trans am. I rebuilt the motor in 2002 and didn't complete it. It's sat inside a garage that was def very damp. It's seen almost a decades worth of winters with the motor open. No valve covers, distributor or spark plugs...

I've been running these since before this thread existed. Ive never had sputter due to the swap. The only time I get sputter now is when I hit 17psi... But thats because I'm running ungapped Denso Iridiums for the Honda v6 j30a4. My old iridiums were fouled and this was all I had laying around...

Has anyone figured out what to do in order to get the dust boots to seal the spark plugs into the pockets? I cant use shorter lenth spark plugs cuz then the coil packs won't sit on the plug properly. And I don't know where/which silicone dust boots to change to. The only thing I can imagine...

Update, still running mine after 3 or 4 years. It's been so long, I don't even know how long it's been on there. I am running j30a4 spark plugs, double iridium gapped at .048" and no misfire at redline and 17psi on the stock ct.

The panels will all fir the same however there were some factory mistakes. I have found panels for targa cars in the trunks of hard toppers. So far, Huey were all inside pre89 hardtops. When I put gray guts in my car years ago, I used hard top parts from another 89 so I have no targa holders...

It's one of the few things that's not supposed to be on my car that still works flawlessly... Even in spite of my semi-bhg. It still fires up after I unflood the motor of coolant.

I was hitting 12psi on my setup with no boost controller. I retrofitted a ct12a wg actuator to my ct26 and ran 17psi regularly with no blow out. It pulled extremely hard for a ct in the midrange. Of course, near 5000, the power fell off hard, as did the boost.

Yeah it'll be quite a pita since I think I'm gonna have to port Another stock head. My current one is bad ass but is cut to the limit. Idk if I'll be able to mill it again.

just confirmed coolant in my cylinders and ran across this guys thread and thouht I'd share. I've got #3 on your list with no other symptoms. No coolant in the oil, no steam in the crankcase, no smoke in the exhaust, no overheating Ever, no coolant has ever pushed from the radiator. I just...

Tumble port ftl. I think there are big gains to be had if you convert the tumble port to a swirl port. When I ported my top end, I opened up the runners and lost those notches you were talking about. Also, since my head has to come off now, I'm thinkig about Unshrouding the valves and...

There are no oil galleys that are wide open which would squirt. The only way it would come off is when it's slung from the lobes. My oil was cold and thick enough that it was cohering but as it ran longer, it warmed up and the oil thinned.... Then it started to get slung off the lobes. You can...

1100 tops, with stock wheels. I have a rule of not paying over $1000 for a car I can't drive home. My black 89 was mint and virgin with 74k miles and I paid $850 a d had the guy tow it to my house! If it ran, it'd be a whole diff story though. The only car I paid over 1k for was my ex's for a 1j...

Get a real RS. I have that on my setup with a modded ct and it's great. Perfect balance of rice and race. The old type s was way to screechy. His new one is just a tial on low boost and a tiny bit of whistle. Don't use the knock off, thee diaphragm will tear on your first test drive and surge...

Look what I can do http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evrgSAV7wg8 do the swap and you can be cool too.

I really want to look inside there. But, I just don't want to admit that the head has to come off. I like this head too. If it comes off, it's junk even it it's not cracked cuz it's cut to the limit and all my other heads aren't ported :( back to an anemic 7m i guess