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Guys, it doesnt look good so far. I drained the oil and the drain plug was dark with some metal shavings, the oil was also dark yellow. and the diff only has 10 to 12 hours of use. The drain plug residue The diff also has noticable backlash, my guess is 1mm. I will be inspecting the gears...

Perfect, thanks. I might just make a flat 2mm rubber washer 47mm OD and 21mm ID and just use the top of the nub, to press on the top hat.

Hi guys , any updates for me ? I want to to make a rubber washer that goes outside of X diameter but about 2 to 3mm thicker than H height.

I was hoping that a 3 jaw puller would suffice, or perhaps I wouldnt need to remove the inner pinion bearing, hopefully the inner shim is correct, if not I would just get some one to press it out for me. Update, just went behind, found this rack pinion type press.

Amen, this answers all my questions thus far. have mentioned in another thread before that I am not from the US, but a tropical country called Malaysia, pretty sure its now well known cause of MH370 and all. The shop is this one. https://www.facebook.com/wainlinmsport/ I thought he would be...

Anyone can recommend a suitable low upper limit beam torque wrench (max 25in.lb) that costs about $50? I am having hard time locating one, most of the ones on the market have a much higher limit so I can read the values on the lower end of the scale.

Thanks I looked at the diagram, and if i am correct , if the crush sleeve/pinion bering spacer is too short, the bearings will be heavily loaded, and if the spacer is too long, you cant preload the bearings, is this the correct conclusion ? Also since i suspect that the crush sleeve is now too...

Does anyone have a cross section diagram of the mk3 diff ? I dont want the exploded diagram, but the cross section, it would help me understand better the relation between pinion depth and preload if i knew how the pinion bearing outer race is captured.

So the rebuild by the so called pro did not go well, idiot re used crush sleeve and it made a terrible hum on accel and decel. He took diff apart again and cut down on one of the side shims, and while this has dramatically reduced the hum on accel, the decel hum is still noticable. He will have...

A third world tropical country former british colony- Malaysia.

Yes the rebuilder is using a solid spacer, machining costs over here is not expensive, a LSD is very expensive here. My guess is the rebuild cost is about 1/6th the cost of a LSD center.

In the second pic on the short splines rebuilder says some splines are not exactly straight, I cant really see it myself I admit. However when I zoom the internal splines I do see some scuff wear on the leading edges, I marked a few but I think all of the splines have the marks. The rebuilder...

Pics of the diff internals, Ring and Pinion are fine, seems the side flange splines are little crooked. I will be filling the diff with AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-110

Over the weekend, I managed to get a large gear puller, it is a 3 jaw type. I removed the caliper and then rotor, then I positioned the jaws around the inner flange that holds the wheel studs, after some huffing and puffing I managed to push the right side CV axle out. I proceed to clean the...

Ok confirmed it is 32mm. I managed to loosen and remove the nut, ironically with the handbrake pulled all the way up. I asked my wife to press the brakes hard, the rotor still moved, perhaps her legs aren't strong enough. I sprayed WD40 into the splines and proceed to knock on the CV joint end...

A thought just crossed my mind about the suspension arm, perhaps toyota also didnt want to subject the absorber to a great pull down force when loosening the nut ? Btw is the nut size 32mm ? Also, having the wheel nuts on tight on the rotor with hbrake on should do , instead of having some one...

While looking at the TSRM, I noticed it says we need to level the suspension arm before removing and installing the CV joint. What is the reason for this ? Also I made the mistake of not making a mark on the CV joint to the differential side gear flange when I removed the diff. Is this really a...

I just opened up my diff yesterday and sending the diff and prop shaft for rebuild, may also send the CV joints but they seem fine. Btw, the clunk isnt a one clunk, but a clunk clunk. Its like as soon as i engage D, one clunk then less than a second later another clunk as it "settles"

Could explain what is this thrust angle ?