You might want to disconnect and plug the vac line to the EGR modulator, to make sure the EGR is not being activated. It shouldn't because the VSV is supposed to prevent any vacuum reaching the EGR system except under cruise, but who knows what other stuff is messed up with that setup.
Good, unlikely its a vac leak then.
Seems like you may be dealing with multiple issues on this car.
If the IACV doesn't click and is not seized, then most likely a wiring issue. Check continuity from ECU to the IACV per the TSRM. But this is not the cause of your rough running engine.
Fuel...
I'm betting fuel issue, but to rule out the pirate air, take some hose clamp pliers and pinch off the IACV hose (assuming its not rock hard). The car should stall with the hose squeezed shut if there is no pirate air. His AFM numbers looked ballpark, which is why I'm betting against pirate air.
You need this or equivalent to measure fuel pressure. It replaces the banjo at the CSI. https://actron.com/content/banjo-bolt-m1215
Should be 36 psi with the vac line off and plugged.
Easy test for fuel restriction is a snap throttle test. YOu can find videos on how to do it, but here is a...
Good, AFM appears to be working. I would check fuel next. Checking the fuel pressure on this car is not easy, but you may need to do it. You need an adapter for the cold start injector. First, is the AFPR vacuum line hooked up as shown here...
Fluke is a good brand. They make many models, so a lot depends on your budget.
this is good.
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/dmm/handheld/basic-multimeters/117.htm
This is better
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/dmm/handheld/general-purpose-mulitmeters/177.htm
Yup. That's it. Probably easiest to access Ks from the ECU connector. There's a bunch of cheap meters (e.g. harbor freight) out there that read frequency. I don't know how good they are. My expensive one works well.
At idle its 30-60 Hz, and it can go up to several kHz at high load. For diagnostics, you want to see that it has a nice steady 50 Hz or so at idle and ramps up cleanly with engine load.
Also, following up on another post, some codes are "instant on" (codes 51 and 53) but most are two-cycle...
This car was designed in the mid 80's, that was the era of floppy disks and the IBM PC was state of the art with 8 MHz CPU and 64k RAM. Get the picture. There is not a lot of computing horsepower in the ECU, and it has to do a lot of things. So the diagnostics are mostly rudimentary.
The ECU...
I still think its the AFM or wiring. You should check with a frequency DVM. The resistance test in the manual is mostly bogus. Unless the seller verified it worked before he sent it to you, it could also be bad.
Also, you didn't mention if you checked your timing. Should be 10 BTDC in test...
Agreed . I still run the stock airbox. I have seen no convincing information that it is restrictive, unlike the stock exhaust which really does hurt performance.
From an internet search that square wave setting on the multimeter is a 50 Hz square wave generator, so that won't help.
My guess is the AFM is bad and once you replace it with a good one it will run fine, so hopefully the one you ordered will solve it. Still, That whole air filter...
@Pirate, you are right at the limit of where the current ECU runs out of load. It is trivial to do what Techtom did and just delete the fuel cut completely, but to me that is not acceptable. I think you are a good candidate for the revised code that will double the load.... but I need to write...
The GTE ecu requires the Karmen-vortex AFM and waste fire ignition and corresponding wiring harness of the GTE engine. If you have a GE with a distributor ignition and flapper style AFM then you will need the GE version of the ECU. Besides, I think the ignition timing in the GTE ecu would not...
Hmm, seems like we lost a bunch of recent posts in the server switch over. A quick update, I should have the CAD for the production board done this weekend. It is very close.
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