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The stock pump is fine for stock 440 cc injectors. If you go to 550 cc or bigger you will need an upgraded pump. Most people go with the Walbro 255. I am using the mk 4 supra pump. But it needs some wiring mods because it uses more current. The walbro is pretty much drop in. You will need to...

Seems defective. You should call for sure. It's too bad you don't know if the car ever ran correctly. One thing that can block the rail is if the injectors are pushed too deep into the rail. The factory setup obviously doesn't have this problem but the injectors may have been worked on...

That sucks. Mine hasn't broken yet.

He could be right. I would do a visual inspection of the lines looking for damage, kinks, etc. You can unscrew the dampener and check for blockage or sediment there. Also, check the voltage at the pump with the engine running. You can also do a flow test. I cannot find any specs on what...

You can leave the banjo bolt on permanently. Many cars have schrader valves on the fuel rail stock. The pump appears to have enough juice to keep things pressurized at idle. But something is preventing enough fuel flowing under load. Should see 10V at the pump during idle. There is a resistor...

Bad fpr does not explain low pressure at WOT. That is a restriction from tank to rail. Does this car have mods to the fuel line or pump? The lack of change in pressure with/without vac line could be fpr, or vac line issue. You can feel a strong vacuum at the vac line when disconnected at idle?

1) 37psi engine off and fuel pump on looks good. (spec is 33 to 40 psi) 2) Any condition with fpr vac line disconnected should show 36 psi (37 close enough). 3) Connecting fpr vac line at idle should drop pressure 6-9 psi. No change is not correct behavior. Either the vac line is not got...

Does the fuel pump run during cranking? The GTE AFM does not have a switch for the fuel pump. That's only for the 7MGE

But Canada has Vector cereal. It's good and not available in the US.

Would be a crap shoot, but this might work. Hard to say without trying it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTER-BANJO-BOLT-FITTING-12MM-BOLT-KIT-1-8-NPT-FILTER-/151206591041

Wheaties

With ignition on, jumper B+ to FP in the diag box. Use a piece of copper wire for the jumper as the current is large. The fuel pump should run. If it blows the EFI fuse, then it really is shorted. But I think you are just measuring the windings of the fuel pump which are low resistance (but...

The FP is a connection to the fuel pump supply. Putting 12V on it should cause the pump to run. Useful for testing. It draws about 5 amps.

The factory alarm auto arms itself when the doors are locked. And will go off if any door hatch or hood is opened. The usual failure is the driver side door key micro switch fails and it goes off whenever the driver door is opened. Maybe someone tried to break into it last night?

that dial should be set to 0. Then you can just read the BTDC number off the plate on the block.

NO, code 12 only sets when the car is cranking and does not get any timing pulses from the CPS. Did you check the timing with TE1 grounded in the diag box? If yes, then timing is off. But, it could be the pulley has slipped on the harmonic balancer. So stick a chopstick in sparkplug hole for...

Can't really see the sensor colors in this picture.

You will get code 51 from having the throttle valve wedged open with the feeler gauge. It also comes on if the AC switch is on. Code 12 indicates a Cam position sensor problem. But the car will not run without the CPS signals so it could indicate some intermittent flaky wiring near the CPS...

Do you have any more details on the actual repair? Materials used. Procedure, or anything that could help someone trying to replicate this repair?

As long as you're sure the EGR is off, then all good. If its on during your troubleshooting it will cause all sorts of havoc.