Search results

PCV causes the intake buildup, not EGR, since blowby consists mainly of sticky aromatics and organics. Compare the backside of the intake and exhaust of well used valves to see what I am talking about.

Multiplex or sequential really only matters to the person integrating the system, as it requires different interfaces between ignition and ECU. Its a don't care as far as performance goes. The only reason it matters is that there are far more production cars running sequential than multiplexed...

Some of those topics are literally religious for some people. I would say you can find at least one heated thread for each of them on this site.

The fogs as wired stock only come on with the headlights low beams on. 1) Yes, if bypassed means connected to manifold vacuum 100% of the time. 2) None. Only active at cruise, so no impact on WOT. Bonus, keeps exhaust gas temps lower during cruise conditions. 3) None. Evap trapped gas is...

Why do you think lex/550 is super rich? Its running closed loop 98% of the time. Only at WOT is it going to be rich, and that's a good thing for keeping your engine together.

The new lexus GS-F has suede, so I stand corrected.

Stock FPR is fine. It is typical to replace with an adjustable FPR, but that is really only needed if you do the lexus AFM/550inj mod. Yes, drill out the J tube. Its the only way you are going to handle the higher return fuel flow with a bigger pump. The idea behind the j-tube restriction is...

First, the J-tube needs to be drilled out. You can certainly continue to use it, but if left as is your pressure will not be controllable with a bigger pump. Everything I read says the walbro 255 has a check valve, but I don't own one.

255 Walbro is a common mod for supporting 550cc injectors. Some say it is noisy, and beware of counterfeit. Personally, I went with the denso MkiV turbo fuel pump. Any pump mod means you will need to drill out the restriction in the J-tube return line. Plenty of threads on how to do that...

You can do this. http://www.supramania.com/forums/threads/194466-Window-trim?p=1995860&viewfull=1#post1995860

Since you have VPC, then any pirate air will cause the engine to rev. Like I said, your problem is not the TPS, its a secondary input for the ECU. You have a huge air leak or your throttle is not closing properly. The rev bounce is just the trailing throttle fuel cut, perfectly normal when you...

Can't rev without air. If its a stock system that air also needs to be metered through the AFM. TPS will not do this.

Can't rev without air. If its a stock system that air also needs to be metered through the AFM.

Removing the turbo requires the downpipe to be removed, plus the oil and water lines, heat shields, and stays, plus the manifold interface. So its a small savings in time to do both, but not huge. No need to replace the manifold unless you are going for some monster turbo with a different...

Ok, good. Although your electrical seems to have some issues, it is not enough to be the source of your problem. You can forget about further electrical diagnosis for now. So now its down to either a bad pump, FPR, or restriction somewhere in the line. The pressure drop after shut off can be...

First thing is to run 12V direct to the pump and test if it fixes the problem. That will tell us if low voltage is the culprit. .

I would expect the ECUand VSVs to work fine with a lower voltage, I have tested the ECU and it works normally with only 9V. The fuel pump, being a high energy device, could be impacted, but not so much the other things. The injectors have a cal table in the ECU that goes down to 7 or 8V as I...

Don't worry, the pump can handle more than 14V. The FPR VSV should have 12 Volts on BOTH terminals under all conditions except a hot start. For a hot start the Red-Blue wire will be 0V. The Black-Red wire is effectively B+, so is always 12V. You can check for correct VSV operation as shown...

Your numbers seem ok, but that's with no fuel pump load since engine is off. What I would suggest is you repeat measurements with FP B+ jumpered. That when your B+ seems to take a big hit 14.53 to 12.99V. But really, the best test would be to run 12V straight to the pump from the battery...

Great, now we can compare. At idle, your Bat to B+ drop at 0.9V is twice mine (0.46V). Your FP to pump drop at 0.45V is 3 times higher than mine (0.14V). Even though your battery voltage starts out higher, your pump voltage at 9V is 1V lower. Jumpered, your Bat to B+ drop at 1.54V is 3x...