Listen to these guys...good advice. You don't want to use a MHG unless the block is machined...that's why every MHG manufacturer has a required smoothness (RA spec) for the block/head. You might get away with it depending on the condition of your block, but if this is the 1st time you've done this, I would go with the stock HG with ARP hardware.
Read the TRSM several times concerning this...then read it again. Prior planning prevents piss poor performance
JJ's camera suggestion is a very good idea.
- Don't hurt yourself pulling the head...it's a two man job minimum. A cherry picker makes it really easy.
- The head and block decks must be checked for flatness...I'll promise you the head will need to be machined. If the block deck is not flat, it will too...at that point you might as well go with a MHG. Depending on your budget, this is a very opportune time to freshen up the head...valve job, seals, guides as required. Check shim clearances regardless...easy to do with the head on a bench.
- In addition to the top end gasket kit (use Toyota). Replace the two small 90 deg rubber hoses...one at the rear of the head...one just behind the water pump. Check/replace the coolant hoses leading to the TB and ISC valve on the intake manifold. A new timing belt is not a bad idea if yours has a lot of miles on it....Toyota or Greddy.
- Make sure the block deck is clean...no old gasket material...no foreign material of any kind. Do not cut corners here. I would clean the piston tops...Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Make sure there is no debris in the cylinders at all when the head is ready to go back on...wipe the cylinder walls down with a very light coat of oil. Check the oil and coolant galleries for debris too.
- ARP torque specs...they're on the sheet that comes with the hardware. Use them and not what you "hear" from your buddies. The specs are different if you use motor oil or moly...the supplied moly is best. ARP recommends several tightening/loosening cycles for their hardware. The description is on the ARP site. Use the TRSM pattern...I make 5 passes.
- Be careful torquing the exhaust manifold studs...these are notorious for stripping. If you got the cash, helicoil all of them w/ new studs. Someone on here is selling a kit.
- The leading cause of rod knock is coolant in the oil from a BHG. Change your oil/filter before you run the motor with the new HG...I would run a 30W dino oil at first. Change the oil/filter again after 100 miles....we're making sure there is no coolant in your crank case left. Use a good oil this time...a syn is preferred in 5W-30 or 0W-30 grades. Use a Wix or PureOne filter.
That's all I can add to what's already been said...read a few threads and the TRSM. Then you can ask informed questions. Make no mistake, this is a pretty big job man
