Will timing affect horse power?

[suprafanatic]

sorry i havent concluded this post.. lol iv been really busy.. but we ended up taking the CPS off. We then grinded some off the top part of the slot so the slot went alittle higher. doing this allowed us to get the timing at 11* car has been running great ever since we fixed that.

 

[gaboonviper85]

sorry i havent concluded this post.. lol iv been really busy.. but we ended up taking the CPS off. We then grinded some off the top part of the slot so the slot went alittle higher. doing this allowed us to get the timing at 11* car has been running great ever since we fixed that.

......way to be ghetto:3d_frown:

 

[D4MJT]

sorry to hijack this thread a little, but I really could use some similar help.

I recently had to change the little 90 degree rubber hose that connects to the lower thermostat housing, and to do this, I removed the thermostat housing and the CPS. I'm positive my timing's out because the car doesn't pull like it did at all. After reading this thread, can someone confirm that these steps would be correct, as I know my cam timing has not changed at all, it's purely my ignition timing.

1) Remove #1 plug and put a chopstick in, put a socket on the crank and turn until I get the chopstick to stop going up, so #1 piston is at TDC.

2) Remove CPS cover and align the 2 parts like shown in this thread.

3) Insert the CPS keeping the 2 parts aligned and tighten up.

4) Replace CPS cover

5) Hey presto, correctly reset ignition timing.

Is this correct?

Matt

 

[shaeff]

sorry i havent concluded this post.. lol iv been really busy.. but we ended up taking the CPS off. We then grinded some off the top part of the slot so the slot went alittle higher. doing this allowed us to get the timing at 11* car has been running great ever since we fixed that.

Ugh. So much for doing things properly. :nono:

On a side note, what the hell is going on with people these days? This seems to be an ongoing trend, and going more and more downhill. Why band-aid the problem when the proper fix is EASIER!? I'll never understand.

Edit: DRMJT- you need to make sure the cam notches are at 12 o'clock w/ #1 piston @ TDC, and the crank pulley at 0*. Once you've got that set, follow the pic posted earlier in this thread (it's a good one. LOL), and you should be set. (assuming you have a timing light, as mentioned below)

 

[kotu100]

yes, but the CPS shaft will turn when you're putting it in, you've got to compensate so that when the CPS is all the way in the bolt should be about in the middle of the adjustment slot.
just make sure when you're @ TDC its not 180*, if you take off the oil filler cap you should be able to see the intake cam lobe.

and a timing light helps.

 

[suprafanatic]

how else was i to fix the timing? no matter what we did the timing wouldnt be where it should be without doing what we did.

 

[deabionni]

Everything will be based on the stick test.

This all follows a logical progression ie: 1>2>3>4 and so on.

If 1 isn't correct nothing else will be.

how else was i to fix the timing? no matter what we did the timing wouldnt be where it should be without doing what we did.

Follow the steps. IJ was trying to help you fix the timing in the correct order.

Instead, you jumped ahead to step (x) and couldn't get it right as you never followed the steps ahead of it. Since you couldn't get step (x) right, you used a band aid "fix" so that you could set the timing.

If you had to modify the CPS to set the timing, then something else still isn't right. Your "fix" may have allowed you to set the timing, but the real problem still exists as you never corrected it.

 

[Who]

The CPS needs to look like this:


That's with the cam gears pointing at the index and the crank damper pointing at zero.
The adjustment bolt should be in the middle range with it looking like this.

Decking the head will affect valve timing a bit, but not 3 degs.

You really don't want to run with the timing retarded, even 3 degs. You want to run at the TSRM spec...10 deg BTDC.

Ding ding ding my light bulb just went on. When the cps is out of the car you do not line up the two marks. You offset them in the correct direction. When you slide in the cps and the helical gear turns the marks end up in line. The picture posted is is a photo of the cps inserted or installed correctly in the car. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

 

[jdub]

The marks on the CPS shaft line up pretty well, but you are correct, a slight offset may be necessary for the cam helical gear. It depends on how well the exhaust cam timing belt gear is lined up on the cover index. The end result *should* look like the pic.

All this assumes the #1 piston is in fact at TDC...hence the "stick test" IJ suggested. The rubber in an old crank damper can twist up, making the index mark on it inaccurate when you try to line up on the "zero" mark.

 

[Who]

All this assumes the #1 piston is in fact at TDC...hence the "stick test" IJ suggested. The rubber in an old crank damper can twist up, making the index mark on it inaccurate when you try to line up on the "zero" mark.

Ok now it makes sense. The "stick test" and the index mark on the crank damper are two ways to find TDC. The "stick test" would override or supercede the index mark on the crank if they both do not agree.

 

[jdub]

The "stick test" would override or supercede the index mark on the crank if they both do not agree.

Yes it would
It would be time for a new damper too.

 

[Who]

Thanks jdub for your time and knowledge :thumbup:

 

[LilMissMkIII]

Good thread.

Have bookmarked for when I get around to sorting out my issues

 

[FullNelson]

Good thread.

Have bookmarked for when I get around to sorting out my issues

+1

I have one of those feeling this will come in handy soon enough.