Will injectors from a 7mge fit in a 7mgte?
- Thread starter cfurlan
- Start date
Well then does anyone know how to test the injectors while the car is running. Here's the symptoms, I rebuilt the engine due to overheating it. It ruined the main and rod bearings so I replaced those along with a new head gasket. When it overheated, it started running really rough with a miss and initially dieing if not given a little throttle. I put it all back together and also installed new ngk spark plugs. Now it starts but misses really bad. It idles around 350-400 rpm's and eventually dies if not given throttle. Spark plug wires seem to be good still, so I'm thinking its the injectors but I don't know. Any help would be great.
The code 52 has nothing to do with your low idle. It will, however, retard the timing in an effort to prevent detonation. The side effect of retarded timing is running rich(er).
Whenever I'm working on a motor, I will first fix any error codes that are stored, clear the ECU memory, and start with a clean slate. Fix that code 52, double check the mechanical timing (cam/crank), and recheck the ignition timing. We'll go from there.
Whenever I'm working on a motor, I will first fix any error codes that are stored, clear the ECU memory, and start with a clean slate. Fix that code 52, double check the mechanical timing (cam/crank), and recheck the ignition timing. We'll go from there.
With the car off the timing is set at 0. With a timing light and the car on running about 700 rpm's, it's at about 10 btdc. When I got the car I noticed that the po already did the rewire for the knock sensors so I'm thinking its just running so bad that it's triggering the sensor. I cleared the codes two times in a row with no change to the way the engine ran and within ten seconds the code was back on with the wire still in the diag box. Thanks
cfurlan;1636222 said:
The car running bad isn't causing your code 52. Code 52 means there's a short in your wiring, have bad knock sensor(s), or the ECU is fried. Chances are it's the wiring. Easy way to check is to pull the ECU connector where the KS wires run into, grab a DVOM and click it on continuity check. Touch one probe to a knock sensor pin in the ECU connector, and one to ground. If you get a beep (continuity), you have a bad wire. Do that for both.
Sometimes it won't show up if it's an intermittent short, but that's a good place to start. When the knock sensor(s) operate, it's pretty much invisible. You can't really tell they're working. A poorly running engine won't result in code 52, though.
Well if the knock sensor isn't causing it to run like crap, then that's the least of my worries. Also notice today my new battery died so I jumped the car. It ran for 20 min and then turned it off and the battery was still dead. I must have hooked the alternator up wrong so I'll take a look at it. But I do not think that would cause it to misfire and not idle. Thanks for the help
