ooohhh, well ima go bolt my DP back on after i take some pics of thw WG, and i'll take off the MBC then post up my findings.
why is my turbo so laggy?
- Thread starter kotu100
- Start date
Id like to see how you have the lines setup to the waste gate, and how you have the wastegate bolted to the flange on the manifold.
MDCmotorsports;1366781 said:
i'll get some pics of the lines up tonite.
lemme know if you see anything out of place.
thanks
taking the MBC didnt do anything but lower boost to 7psi, and it still didnt hit it till over 4k rpm, actually seemed to spool slower.
oh and i dunno why i didnt think of this earlier, could running a undivided t4 on a divided t4 flanged manifold cause super slow spool? i didnt think it would make a difference.
hey guys quick update, im postin from my phone. All of a sudden it started boosting sooner. I hit 10psi at about 3700 now. The mbc setting moved when i was taken it off, but it actuall starts boosting at 3100-3200 where b4 it didnt start till like 3600-3700. The really weird thing is when i 1st left it was still spooling slow, then it randomly spooled quicker.
hmmm that is weird, not quite boost spike but something hose wise isn't set right.
I Don't think undivided/divided will make a difference because it should shoot the air evenly into both banks.
I Don't think undivided/divided will make a difference because it should shoot the air evenly into both banks.
sounds to me like your ECU was pulling timing before, causing slower spool. Could have been a bad tank of gas.
You cannot expect to run these types of setups on a stock ECU and have them respond like you're running a standalone. I'd imagine that the ECU has RPM based ignition retard, instead of being strictly airflow based. Think about it... it's "tuned" for the stock CT26.
If you're sure that everything is mechanically as it should be, then it is what it is. You're running a 600whp capable turbo on a 300whp ECU, fooled for more fuel.
Sure the stock IC piping is restrictive, but for some of you to say it's slowing spool (short of a boost leak) is incorrect.
cliffs- its all in the tune.
You cannot expect to run these types of setups on a stock ECU and have them respond like you're running a standalone. I'd imagine that the ECU has RPM based ignition retard, instead of being strictly airflow based. Think about it... it's "tuned" for the stock CT26.
If you're sure that everything is mechanically as it should be, then it is what it is. You're running a 600whp capable turbo on a 300whp ECU, fooled for more fuel.
Sure the stock IC piping is restrictive, but for some of you to say it's slowing spool (short of a boost leak) is incorrect.
cliffs- its all in the tune.
damn, i was hoping to get away without runnin an EMS, im gonna go double check my timing and do a compression test.
hottscennessey;1367236 said:
Actually, when IDL is off (above idle) engine speed (Ne) and intake air volume (Vs) are both big inputs to TCCS timing control. The ECU determines basic retard/advance angle based on a table in memory...it selects the value closest to the air volume per 1 engine revolution.
Other inputs considered:
- IDL for on/off idle control...altitude (HAC), vehicle speed (SPD) and AC signal is also considered for idle
- Knock sensors (KNK)
- Coolant temp (THW)...for warm-up, AFR feedback, and over temp correction
- O2 (Ox)...for AFR feedback...SPD also has an input here
There is a min/max timing retard/advance. There is also a transition correction that retards timing during acceleration following deacceleration.
It might be a good idea to check codes
no codes at all, checked right after i got home last night....
however i think there may be an issue with my knock sensors, cuz knock doesnt read on my safc anymore, but the car runs fine, and no codes.
however i think there may be an issue with my knock sensors, cuz knock doesnt read on my safc anymore, but the car runs fine, and no codes.
Do you get a fast blink CEL when you jump TE1 and E1?
Unless you get a code 52, the ECU will not retard timing automatically. During normal ops (no code), the ECU retards timing in increments based on a 7 Khz signal from the knock sensors.
Do you know what coolant temps are (i.e. actual degrees)? Above 100 deg C the ECU retards timing.
Unless you get a code 52, the ECU will not retard timing automatically. During normal ops (no code), the ECU retards timing in increments based on a 7 Khz signal from the knock sensors.
Do you know what coolant temps are (i.e. actual degrees)? Above 100 deg C the ECU retards timing.
jdub;1367251 said:
there are no codes when i jump TE1 and E1, i've gotten a code 52 in the past so i know what it feels like, can't get into boost at all... im sure thats not the issue here.
coolant temps i really have no idea, that cheap aftermarket gauge i wired in doesnt really work, i'll replace it in the next couple of days and get you a number.
I understand you said are no codes previously...I asked if you get a CEL fast blink (.26 sec between blinks) with the terminals jumped. RTFQ
not to thread jack but the fast blinking cel what is it?..i had it before i started the car when i checked for cels but after startup it went away..do i need to worry bout it?
It's the normal indication (no codes) when the terminals are jumped...you do not have to start the car. In addition, the CEL (TE1 & E1 off) will illuminate when the ignition switch is turned on and then goes out at 500 RPM. New codes will not output or stored below 500 RPM.
The above behavior is a quick check to tell if the diagnostic system is working correctly...no knock sensor output to his SAFC is why I ask.
That's what I'm trying to get kotu to tell me
The above behavior is a quick check to tell if the diagnostic system is working correctly...no knock sensor output to his SAFC is why I ask.
That's what I'm trying to get kotu to tell me
ok so i guess the ride this morning racked up some codes, keep in mind during this run it hit fuel cut, and i took the intake off the turbo while it was running to make sure the turbo was spinning.
codes:
12 RPM Signal
14 Ignition Signal
24 Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
31 Air Flow Meter Signal
34 Turbocharger Pressure
52 Knock Sensor Signal
reset the battery and drove up n down my driveway, now it blinks fast.
codes:
12 RPM Signal
14 Ignition Signal
24 Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
31 Air Flow Meter Signal
34 Turbocharger Pressure
52 Knock Sensor Signal
reset the battery and drove up n down my driveway, now it blinks fast.
The 24, 31, and 34 can all be explained. The 12, 14 and 52 should not have removing the intake as a cause. You might want to do a real road test and check again.
The code 52 and the SAFC not reading the knock sensor signal is making me very suspicious.
Might want to make sure the igniter has a good ground:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217
Here's how you test it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334
Check your CPS wiring and connector.
The code 52 and the SAFC not reading the knock sensor signal is making me very suspicious.
Might want to make sure the igniter has a good ground:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217
Here's how you test it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334
Check your CPS wiring and connector.
it DID read it when i 1st hooked it up, but i was gettin counts close to 150 @ the dragstrip, now it stays at zero all the time...
i'll brb, gonna go around the block.
i'll brb, gonna go around the block.
ok im back, did a few 2nd gear pulls, 9psi till 6150rpm. CEL still blinks fast, but knock on safc still shows 0 as highest saved value...