Hey all, so tonight I decided to pull my turbo off so I could bring the manifold over to my work, my brothers shop first thing in the morning so he could weld on a external waste gate flange.
I am NA-T so my oil filter is directly on the block, so to do an oil change I have to remove the AFM and turbo inlet hose every time. I do oil changes every 2000 miles, yes sooner than normal due to no oil cooler and the oil degrading faster from excess heat. Anyways I did an oil change about 1400 miles ago and every time I always check shaft play of the turbo. It is a stock CT26 recently rebuilt from Turbo & Electric sales and service co. In Phoenix, AZ I'd say 14,000 miles ago at tops. Lsat oil change it had the normal few thousands of radial play just how I got it and absolutely no thrust (axial) play.
So tonight first thing I remove is the AFM and turbo inlet hose and check shaft play, yep as normal hardly no radial play, grab the shaft and pull on it, HOLY SHIT..... probably 1/8th inch of thrust (Axial) play. Now Im pissed so I continue to remove the upper intercooler pipe (driftmotion FMIC set for the 7M with the Hong Kong Sport SSQV type BOV) down pipe and unhook the AN lines to the turbo and pull the turbo off.
As Im doing this Im running everything through my mind that has changed in the last 1400 miles, well nothing comes to mind, still running the same boost 12 PSI dropping to 11 ish since It has been tuned on E85. Im finally sitting on my computer and think, hmm wonder if that HKS clone BOV failed again (Yes Im on my 3rd replacement from Aaron at driftmotion) so I go out and grab the snap ring pliers and pop the BOV off the upper pipe, remove the back section and man I sure as hell guessed right, melted broken check valve for the diaphragm again for the 3rd time!
I always run the SSQV without the whistle piece in it because I think it sounds homo and fan boyish, must be to mad JDM tyte for my taste. Part throttle on boost then let off it always compressor surged a little bit, Nothing that would cause any damage. At WOT to 0 throttle it would blow off hard and loud. Well I guess when it doesn't open at all it sounds the same loud PSH through the air filter with a little bit of compressor surge after.. Always sounded the same, so didn't notice anything different. So I hooked up a vacuum pump to a tank and built up 30 in hg of vacuum, hooked it up to the valve and released it, hmm nothing just a quick leak valve didn't open at all. Seeing my motor pulls 24 in hg of vacuum on decel I figured 30 inches would be plenty. So now im stuck with my 3rd driftmoton HKS clone blow off valve that has broken and now caused damage to my freshly rebuild CT26.
Aaron told me that he has used and sold tons of them and only had one come back because the valve seat broke. Well I think that is complete bull shit and a lie, The placement on the upper pipe being directly above the turbo just melts the plastic check valve inside. That is the hottest part in the engine compartment, why don't they move it above the air filter or AFM further down on the pipe.
Either way its to late now, so what do you think about this situation, who should be responsible? Driftmotion or am I completely screwed? Im pretty pissed about it, being the 3rd valve that he has never had any problems with that work great for hundreds that he has sold.
Ugh I just vented I think, no homo....
Im also bringing my upper intercooler pipe to the shop tomorrow so the BOV flange can be blocked off and Ill get a new flange welded to the bottom cold pipe near the intercooler inside the bumper away from the heat how it should be.
grr :: angry ::
Edit: Pics added
BOV 1 failure: this one the aluminum valve shaft was completely broken off.
BOV 2 failure: Melted and cracked check valve
BOV 3 failure: Check valve and O ring just sitting in top hat when I removed it, melted...
Thanks,
Devin LeBlanc
I am NA-T so my oil filter is directly on the block, so to do an oil change I have to remove the AFM and turbo inlet hose every time. I do oil changes every 2000 miles, yes sooner than normal due to no oil cooler and the oil degrading faster from excess heat. Anyways I did an oil change about 1400 miles ago and every time I always check shaft play of the turbo. It is a stock CT26 recently rebuilt from Turbo & Electric sales and service co. In Phoenix, AZ I'd say 14,000 miles ago at tops. Lsat oil change it had the normal few thousands of radial play just how I got it and absolutely no thrust (axial) play.
So tonight first thing I remove is the AFM and turbo inlet hose and check shaft play, yep as normal hardly no radial play, grab the shaft and pull on it, HOLY SHIT..... probably 1/8th inch of thrust (Axial) play. Now Im pissed so I continue to remove the upper intercooler pipe (driftmotion FMIC set for the 7M with the Hong Kong Sport SSQV type BOV) down pipe and unhook the AN lines to the turbo and pull the turbo off.
As Im doing this Im running everything through my mind that has changed in the last 1400 miles, well nothing comes to mind, still running the same boost 12 PSI dropping to 11 ish since It has been tuned on E85. Im finally sitting on my computer and think, hmm wonder if that HKS clone BOV failed again (Yes Im on my 3rd replacement from Aaron at driftmotion) so I go out and grab the snap ring pliers and pop the BOV off the upper pipe, remove the back section and man I sure as hell guessed right, melted broken check valve for the diaphragm again for the 3rd time!
I always run the SSQV without the whistle piece in it because I think it sounds homo and fan boyish, must be to mad JDM tyte for my taste. Part throttle on boost then let off it always compressor surged a little bit, Nothing that would cause any damage. At WOT to 0 throttle it would blow off hard and loud. Well I guess when it doesn't open at all it sounds the same loud PSH through the air filter with a little bit of compressor surge after.. Always sounded the same, so didn't notice anything different. So I hooked up a vacuum pump to a tank and built up 30 in hg of vacuum, hooked it up to the valve and released it, hmm nothing just a quick leak valve didn't open at all. Seeing my motor pulls 24 in hg of vacuum on decel I figured 30 inches would be plenty. So now im stuck with my 3rd driftmoton HKS clone blow off valve that has broken and now caused damage to my freshly rebuild CT26.
Aaron told me that he has used and sold tons of them and only had one come back because the valve seat broke. Well I think that is complete bull shit and a lie, The placement on the upper pipe being directly above the turbo just melts the plastic check valve inside. That is the hottest part in the engine compartment, why don't they move it above the air filter or AFM further down on the pipe.
Either way its to late now, so what do you think about this situation, who should be responsible? Driftmotion or am I completely screwed? Im pretty pissed about it, being the 3rd valve that he has never had any problems with that work great for hundreds that he has sold.
Ugh I just vented I think, no homo....
Im also bringing my upper intercooler pipe to the shop tomorrow so the BOV flange can be blocked off and Ill get a new flange welded to the bottom cold pipe near the intercooler inside the bumper away from the heat how it should be.
grr :: angry ::
Edit: Pics added
BOV 1 failure: this one the aluminum valve shaft was completely broken off.
BOV 2 failure: Melted and cracked check valve
BOV 3 failure: Check valve and O ring just sitting in top hat when I removed it, melted...
Thanks,
Devin LeBlanc
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