I think they should make the check valves out of steel or something. wouldn't be a bad idea if someone with experience stepped up & made them. lol
Who's liable for the damage caused?
- Thread starter Devin LeBlanc
- Start date
Devin LeBlanc;1734973 said:
Ahhh... I understand your "reasoning" a little better then. I'll still side with some other comments in here but TRY to be "diplomatic" as well!
On the note of DM (Aaron) service, I've actually had EXCEPTIONAL service from them in all my dealings, so you are on your own relative "empathy" for their business model and overall reputation. I think pretty good from what I hear and personal experience has been great!
Relative some TIMLINESS of some responses (other comments) I do believe there was a "vacation" in there for them and they had some "delays/down-time" in recent month? (Not that it's an excuse... but may explain the atypical "behavior" from what is normally expected?)
...on a side note, "refunds" as I am familiar with are OFTEN on a financial processing cycle that is prox 30 or some such basis and DON'T occur IMMEDIATELY as a rule of thumb... I've seen some "credits" to take into the second month to "process" from other locations... maybe not CONVENIENT, but typical in industry. Just sayin'...
G/L with your solution!
-crisp
Any reason you didn't get a Canton or lower cost perma cool relocation adapter? The hold down plate in the right front is a good spot. My filter mount is there, as is others I have seen on this site.
I'm running the same thing devon my crappy knock off stoped working pretty quickly although i have replaced it with a real hks that is holding up thus far about 4k miles. but still the placement for the BOV on the Driftmotion kit is terrible and needs/should be relocated.
i guess its placed there for stock re-circ setup. though ive never had a problem with bov parts melting, even using the all plastic bosch upgrade. but as you stated, you live in the desert, which dont help. maybe find a turbo volvo in the bone yard, some of them has a metal bov, might last longer.
You could just cut the flange off weld it shut and move a foot down stream away from the turbo. Shouldn't take more than a half an hour to fix.
Seems like you change your oil prematurely. Id send it out and get it analyzed at the least. Changing your oil too soon to much is not the best for the engine. Oil needs time to get broken in.
Seems like you change your oil prematurely. Id send it out and get it analyzed at the least. Changing your oil too soon to much is not the best for the engine. Oil needs time to get broken in.
Add an oil cooler, get some heat shields and relocate your BOV, problem solved!
As for cheap china knock-offs, you're getting what you pay for (unfortunately)..
As for cheap china knock-offs, you're getting what you pay for (unfortunately)..
He's right. Not only is that a terrible waste of but he's keeping engine wear high by changing it so often. Then again Devin is pretty stubborn when it comes to learning about oil...
If your oil is turning black its doing its job. You never go by the color of the oil whether or not its time to change. Without analyzing your oil and changing your oil when its turns black your basically wasting your money.
Many dino oils can go well past 5k depending on driving style.
I can run gc change filter at 4k and and change oil and filter at 8k.
There is no need to change oil ever 2k.
The oil needs to break in before it can start breaking down. It takes more energy to break the oil in then it does down. In which case is worse for your motor. Sae has studies on it but you have to pay for it and im not going to pay for it.
The 3k mile myth was born in the 50/60's and is still going today.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
Changing your oil at every 2k is worse than the 3k mile myth.
Now if it were stictly a race car and got driven for a hour at a time at wot then id change it after each day as the oil is going to be broken down much quicker being at higher temps. But for a drag strip your spending 12 sec at wot. Thats like a highway pull or speeding on a on ramp.
Many dino oils can go well past 5k depending on driving style.
I can run gc change filter at 4k and and change oil and filter at 8k.
There is no need to change oil ever 2k.
The oil needs to break in before it can start breaking down. It takes more energy to break the oil in then it does down. In which case is worse for your motor. Sae has studies on it but you have to pay for it and im not going to pay for it.
The 3k mile myth was born in the 50/60's and is still going today.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
Changing your oil at every 2k is worse than the 3k mile myth.
Now if it were stictly a race car and got driven for a hour at a time at wot then id change it after each day as the oil is going to be broken down much quicker being at higher temps. But for a drag strip your spending 12 sec at wot. Thats like a highway pull or speeding on a on ramp.
Not home at the moment so I can't post the SAE data but here's one decently done enthusiast study involving Mobil One:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
"While the wear metals all accumulated steadily over the course of the test, the highest concentrations of accumulation per mile occurred in the first 3,000 miles of the test. From the 3,000-mile mark all the way to 18,000 miles, only lead showed an increase in per-mile wear beyond 3,000 miles. Yet even with an increased wear rate, lead wore the least in terms of absolute wear. For iron and copper, the longer the oil remained in service, the lower the wear rate got. In case it isn't obvious yet, this means that the most wear occurs in the first 3,000 miles."
The SAE and military also have a large body of scientific evidence that support this claim. As I've said before this stuff has been studied to death during the 100 years engines have been around.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
"While the wear metals all accumulated steadily over the course of the test, the highest concentrations of accumulation per mile occurred in the first 3,000 miles of the test. From the 3,000-mile mark all the way to 18,000 miles, only lead showed an increase in per-mile wear beyond 3,000 miles. Yet even with an increased wear rate, lead wore the least in terms of absolute wear. For iron and copper, the longer the oil remained in service, the lower the wear rate got. In case it isn't obvious yet, this means that the most wear occurs in the first 3,000 miles."
The SAE and military also have a large body of scientific evidence that support this claim. As I've said before this stuff has been studied to death during the 100 years engines have been around.
So, is there a particular habit that is most suited considering these interesting technical insights? I would suppose as noted there is variation based on application and such... but let's say specific to our high-output turbo-charged Supra platform.
I try to read all I can on oil... and in the end, I find my habit is to change it "regularly", but at an extended interval as I ADD fresh oil at the rate of about 0.5~1.0 quart/liter per 1,000 miles. My motor is stock bottom with into 100,000+ miles running upwards of 15psi since 20k miles on the motor. Original oil pump.
All I ever run in this car is Mobil 1 15/50 weight "synthetic". I've never had an oil related issue that I'm aware of. Ran it for 227k miles in a 5M. Run it in over a dozen hi-po motorcycles.
I think I've changed it pretty frequently in my motorcycles... 2,000~3,000 miles, but they run kerjillian revs under load constantly. I think my car intervals are usually 3,000~6,000 and truck goes 5,000~7,500.
I can't say if there is a method to my madness or not. It's just habit... no issues yet?!
Mmmmm... oil.
-crisp
I try to read all I can on oil... and in the end, I find my habit is to change it "regularly", but at an extended interval as I ADD fresh oil at the rate of about 0.5~1.0 quart/liter per 1,000 miles. My motor is stock bottom with into 100,000+ miles running upwards of 15psi since 20k miles on the motor. Original oil pump.
All I ever run in this car is Mobil 1 15/50 weight "synthetic". I've never had an oil related issue that I'm aware of. Ran it for 227k miles in a 5M. Run it in over a dozen hi-po motorcycles.
I think I've changed it pretty frequently in my motorcycles... 2,000~3,000 miles, but they run kerjillian revs under load constantly. I think my car intervals are usually 3,000~6,000 and truck goes 5,000~7,500.
I can't say if there is a method to my madness or not. It's just habit... no issues yet?!
Mmmmm... oil.
-crisp
Since I read all of that stuff JJ posted...what back in 08 or earlier? I've been using Castrol syntec 0w-30 Euro Formula, I burn maybe 1/2 a quart every 3-4k miles, change my oil around the 6-7k mark after a filter change around 3.5-4k. I honestly notice the engine feel smoother after about 3.5k miles. Even when I show people the oil change 3k mile myth stuff, they think I'm making it up. ><
I change my oil in the 2J @ 8,000 miles with a filter at 4,000. Lab tests prove this out to be the sane change interval for my car.
i think this thread needs a title change..... good info
---------- Post added at 01:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 PM ----------
most of my vehicles go on the continual oil change method... with an emphasis on automated chassis lubrication and rust control il throw a filter at them on occasion...
my truck hasnt had an oil change in its short life yet....but im guessing the light is bound to come on soon...its at 11000 miles. i go by the monitoring system lab analisis on my last truck proved its accurate.
---------- Post added at 01:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 PM ----------
most of my vehicles go on the continual oil change method... with an emphasis on automated chassis lubrication and rust control il throw a filter at them on occasion...
my truck hasnt had an oil change in its short life yet....but im guessing the light is bound to come on soon...its at 11000 miles. i go by the monitoring system lab analisis on my last truck proved its accurate.
This thread reminds me... I should probably change mine soon. Been about 9 months now. HOWEVER... I drive an average of about 50-60 miles a week. Maybe on a busy week, 100 miles. Figure a max of 6000 miles in a year. Is this sort of cycle any worse off than driving the typical 'average' of 10,000-12,000 miles per year? I tend to change my oil anywhere from 1-2 times a year based on my driving.